This way for novelties galore.
The fashion world might have their weeks spanning the globe from New York to London to Milan to Paris but if you’re a watch lover, the only time that matters is Watches and Wonders. Held last week in Geneva, the industry brought out their best and most unique pieces from well known luxury labels and smaller brands alike. The consensus? Spring is on the horological horizon with a dizzying array of vibrant dials, endless gems, and an emphasis on jewelry.
Here are some of my favorites.
1) Vacheron Constantin Revives Their Grand Lady Kalla
First introduced in 1980, the Grand Lady Kalla represents Vacheron Constantin’s rich history in gem setting and all things elegant. Inspired by the Greek word kallista, meaning most beautiful, this modern take on old-world glam undeniably lives up to its name. Consisting of a sautoir necklace and a watch bracelet it can be worn together or separately — a testament to the Maison continuing to raise the bar while mixing haute horology and haute joaillerie. The latest interpretation features a staggering 268 diamonds, mixing emerald cut stones with Akoya and onyx pearls to embody the art-deco pieces of the past.
2) Tag Heuer Finally Releases a Panda Dial Carrera Chronograph
Representing over six decades of excellence in precision, the Carrera has easily been my favorite model from Tag Heuer. Having originally fallen in love with the first Carrera references from the 1960s, I was eager to try on the much-anticipated Panda dial. To no surprise the chronograph was perfectly balanced in dial design, ergonomics, and style even on my small wrist. If you were ever hesitant to go for a complication, the Carrera Panda is my top recommendation of where to start. Truly a testament to the design, this 39mm Chronograph wears comfortability while still serving a bit of sporty spice.
3) A Miniature Movement Masterpiece With Chopard’s L’Heure du Diamant
To anyone who says jewelry watches cannot be mechanical marvels, let me kindly introduce you to the L’Heure du Diamant by Chopard. Engineered behind a textured mother of pearl dial and over 2 carats of diamonds it also boasts the smallest and thinnest movement on the market — made in-house by the brand, of course. Ethically sourced gold and pure elegance bring this 26mm design to life, proving that even the most precious of pieces can be quite powerful.
4) Piaget’s Take on Cuffing Season
It’s nearly impossible to discuss stone dials and jewelry watches without mentioning the pioneering of Piaget. From lapis to tiger’s eye, the brand has set the standard since the 1960s. A masterclass in the maison’s savoir faire, their latest cuff style is a work of true art. In a surprising twist, the dial actually is made of black opal with streaks of blues and green, beautifully complementing the hand-made gold chain bracelet and also reminding enthusiasts and rookies alike, Piaget are the true stone savants, now and forever.
5) Buglari Unveils Its First Serpenti Artist Collaboration With Tadao Ando
Though Bulgari has an extensive history of collaborating with numerous luminaries for the Octo Finissimo and Aluminium collections, last week saw the first-ever collaboration for the infamous Seprenti line. Inspired by the four seasons, architect Tadao Ando designed each dial with recycled stone fragments to create a rhythmical mosaic effect. It might just be my vast desire for warmer weather, but my personal favorite was the summer style featuring an aventurine dial surrounded by a yellow gold and steel snake. Presented by Bulgari as individual timepieces or a collection of four, I genuinely hope this is only the beginning of artist collaborations for the Serpenti.
6) A Poetic Approach to a Moonphase With the Frederique Constant Classics Elegance Luna
Whimsically designed by the daughter of Frederique Constant’s Director of Research and Development, the new Classics Elegance Luna comes in four colorways and is every bit as precise as it is poetic. One of the most desired complications in horology, the moonphase traditionally features one moon, whereas this watch immediately caught my eye and heart as not one but two kissing mother-of-pearl half moons are so sweetly displayed above the six hour. Talk about us in another universe vibes!
7) The Queen of Cute: Hublot’s 29mm Classic Fusion
Though many have strong opinions about “shrinking” classic men’s watches and marketing them to women, candidly, I must admit the 29mm Classic Fusion (especially in the pavé varieties), stole the show. My reaction was similar to a child in a candy store, I couldn’t choose my favorite as all were so fun and dare I say, even better stacked in twos or threes? Being synonymous with big and bold timepieces, Hublot’s release of a 29mm watch in over 20 variations of gold and titanium represents a true dedication to appealing to a different audience, one of which I think was executed with enthusiastic expertise.
8) Anywhere but the Wrist With Chanel’s Première Sautoir-Belt
Continuing the trend of wearing a watch anywhere but the wrist, Chanel released a contemporary classic in their Première Sautoir-Belt . Inspired by the N°5 perfume bottle, one of the most recognizable motifs, it embodies every bit of the brand’s pillars of versatility, class, and sass. Doubling as a belt or necklace, the piece has the luxury house’s signature gold and leather chains, making way for one of the chicest day to dress timepieces on the market.
9) The Independent Icon: De Bethune’s DB28xs Purple Rain
If I could describe De Bethune to the uninitiated, I would begin with one word: dream. As simple as it sounds, the brand encapsulates the endless possibilities of one’s dream. It shows in not only the signature astronomy-inspired blue dials but also the scientific utilization of materials. The independent’s latest release is no exception to that self-described ethos. When trying on the Purple Rain I was taken aback by the titanium case’s near-weightless feeling on my wrist while the starry purple dial sent me into a REM-like state, getting lost in the sheer mechanical beauty. Very rarely do I nerd out from an engineering perspective on a watch, but the mechanical prowess mixed with the rich purple on the DB28xs sent me straight into a horological dream.
10) Beauty Knows No Bounds With Van Cleef & Arpels’ Brise d’Été
Every Watches and Wonders, I look forward to Van Cleef & Arpels as it never ceases to amaze me. Despite the mind-blowing horological technology that the brand I believe never gets nearly enough credit for from the enthusiasts, the sheer artistic beauty is what genuinely delights me in the purest of forms. Unlike other manufacturers Van Cleef’s process begins with beauty, not mechanics, but I must admit the Brise d’Été combines both with the utmost distinction. A tribute to nature, the mother of pearl dial is adorned with butterflies and flowers. At the push of a button, they flutter around the dial, emulating nature during a breeze. As a precursor to the time displayed via a retrograde scale, it’s just as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside.