Dior: Couture AW23

Maria Grazia Chiuri had decked out her traditional structure in the garden of Musée Rodin in works by the Italian artist Marta Roberti of goddesses morphing into animals. They set the tone for a Christian Dior haute couture collection inspired by the clothes of the Antiquity. It was encouraged by some wise words from Mr Dior himself, who once described his creations as “apparent simplicity”. He was referring to the complex dressmaking and expert craftsmanship that go into making the most elegant, most simple expressions – a transition Chiuri has always been fascinated with.

“This is what I like personally. I appreciate other designers who are closer to a sense of effect, but for me, ‘apparent simplicity’ is the best result I can have,” she said during a preview. She applied it to the essential silhouettes of the Antiquity, creating a couture collection that appeared pure and simple in form – ecru peplos and tunics, Bar jacket skirt suits, woven column dresses – but amplified the techniques and fabrication of every inch of handmade confection. “For me, couture is a territory where you can take your time. And the client who comes for couture knows that it’s a different kind of clothes. It’s more timeless,” she said, hitting the nail on the head.

Photography courtesy of Dior.


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