Team Ten Pick Their Favourite Dries Van Noten Collections

As Dries Van Noten announces his departure from his namesake brand after nearly 40 years and more than 100 shows, Team Ten look back at their favourite DVN catwalk collections. 

Sophia Neophitou – Global Editor-In-Chief 

“The AW16 men’s show that DVN staged at Paris’s Opera Garnier was my favourite by far. We were all sat up on the stage in this stacked arrangement as the models stocked through the middle of it and around these huge gilded installations that echoed the gold frogging on garments. Silhouettes were military inspired and embroidered with these incredible serpent-like pictorials and intricate badges playing with both function and fantasy. It was totally immersive and ticked both the creative and the commercial boxes. It really compelled you to feel like this can be your reality, this can be your world. I remember everyone ran out immediately after to go and buy those coats and then the next season it was all anyone would wear when we went to the shows.”

STEPHEN DOIG – Men’s Style Editor, The Telegraph, Deputy Editor, Telegraph Luxury, AND 10 MAGAZINE CONTRIBUTOR

“It must have been January 2016 (also the men’s AW16 show), on a freezing night in Paris. Dries Van Noten was the last show of the day, and the glacial temperatures and darkened hour didn’t exactly lend themselves to huddling outside a side door of the Opera Garnier. In we traipsed, through dark corridors and wending steps until guests were spat out onto the actual stage itself, with two rows of seats on either side of the stage and the models walking stage centre.

“Luscious velvets, brocade, embroidery and lustre. I kick myself to this day that I didn’t get hold of one of those peacock embroidered coats when the collection dropped. The show was mesmerising, the clothes as operatic in scale as the environs and a moment that will remain in my memory of the most spellbinding shows I’ve been privileged enough to see, the music soaring to the frescoed gods above the auditorium and a perfect encapsulation of Dries’ sense of romance and theatre. There’s a soulfulness and sense of nuance to Dries Van Noten’s shows that always makes the spine tingle, just as there is in the clothes he creates. Never one note, never obvious, and entirely unique to Dries himself.”

Garth Allday Spencer – Fashion Creative Director

“Sadly I wasn’t at this one, but the SS05 menswear show was one of my favourites. The boys carried these radios that played the show soundtrack as they walked around the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, so when they came close to you the music got louder and of course got quieter as they strolled away. The audience sat in these big leather armchairs on carpets and the boys mingled throughout the rather random seating arrangement. The theme was Prince Harry, so it had a certain youthful edge to it. It was that idea of English prep reinterpreted and in a way that didn’t feel stuffy. It was everything that Prince Harry was – rebellious and edgy while maintaining that formal feel. Bermuda shorts were worn with madras check jackets, and there were kilts and casual shirts. It was truly great.” 

Claudia Croft – Editor 

“AW96 women’s was the first time I saw a Dries Van Noten show and it was one of those really magic fashion moments. I was working at Drapers Record at the time and it was my first Paris Fashion week and first time covering the shows too. It took place at a huge warehouse on the outskirts of the city and we all sat around on these benches while models walked out wearing printed dresses over trousers – Van Noten was one of the first people to do that. It was just this wall of colour, print and beautiful textures. I loved it.”

Paul Toner – Deputy Editor

“DVN SS23 menswear was my first Dries show and the designer’s first show following the pandemic. I remember the sun beaming onto the rooftop carpark were the show was held and the brilliant, thumping Charlotte de Witte soundtrack as the boys walked the finale. They were backdropped by rows of inflatable tube men stamped in the same, electric prints that appeared in the collection, which came peppered with billowing trousers, gabber-style tracktops and camisoles for lads. What’s not to love?”

Emily Phillips – Features Assistant 

“DVN’s AW19 women’s collection was incredible. The grey tailoring, asymmetric and distorted, that stepped out first cast this haunting melancholy over attendees, but then bursts of colour, evolved into vivid flower print blouses and lush lavender dresses invoking a sense of yearning – perhaps for the freedom of colour or for the balmy smells of summer florals. The nipped in waists mixed with huge puffer parkas created this intoxicating contrast you couldn’t help but fantasise about. It was everything I’d want to wear if I had the appropriate funds… both serious and fun, structured and softened, quiet and loud, elegant and sharp. Those added bits of decadent embroidery and gradient sequins made it really special.”

Bella Koopman – Features Assistant

Dries Van Noten’s AW13 menswear collection was definitely one of my favourites. Paisley was the word, with almost every look swelling or shrinking the print to form the basis of its perfectly patterned aesthetic. Silky shirts, boxy overcoats and even pyjama sets were coated in paisley, paired with straight-leg leather trousers edited with studs for a tougher presentation. Colours danced from maroon to navy, with the occasional pop of orange in keeping with that classic DVN flare. It was a fun example of how one print can tie a collection together whilst ensuring it stays exciting as it gets applied to each new garment.”

Georgia Edwards – Fashion Assistant

“I loved the Dries Van Noten AW16 women’s collection, especially because of all the animal prints. We’re seeing it crop back up again as a trend right now, but those long DVN leopard skirts, shawls and coats combining animal print with stripes, colour blocking and abstract patterns were such amazing pieces. I loved the elegance of the collection mixed with the care-free cool of those jungle prints.”

Beth Darroch – Intern 

“Noten’s autumn/winter collections are always my favourite, but his AW20 women’s collection is definitely at the top of my list. It was quintessential Dries Van Noten – loud and unafraid but at the same time unmistakably luxe and elegant. The vibrant blend of colours gave Peacock realness and it was a great display of the playful patterns that were effortlessly interwoven into DVN’s DNA. The use of dark-hued checks throughout felt both traditional and wonderfully reimagined, whilst the slinky velvet gowns were just gorgeous. Plus, the outerwear was insane in the best way – shearling, leather, snakeskin, brushed wool, feathers – it had anything you could ever want in an unapologetically bold winter wardrobe.”

Sonya Mazuryk – Fashion Assistant

Dries Van Noten’s AW00 men’s and women’s collection was a lesson of simplicity done exceptionally well. Drawing on a muted palette of burnt orange, khaki, beige and blush, the details of this collection were really what made it so stellar. Subtle and delicate accents took the form of pleated, flippy hems and semi-inflated collars whilst patterns were present but more in a demure fashion than his later offerings. The accessories were a particular highlight, with chunky, low-swinging scarves tossed over shoulders and slanted, high-top bucket hats covering ears. 

Zac Apostolou – Production

“My favourite collection from Dries Van Noten was his SS18 menswear offering. There’s just something about the blazers, jackets and embroidered shorts that makes me weak in the knees – if I could afford it, the pieces would be the type of thing I would buy for myself. It perfectly toed the line between utilitarian accents and relaxed elegance, whilst palm tree prints and geometric diamonds kept things playful. It felt like it was plucked straight out of the ‘70s. I think my favourite piece from this particular collection was the blue trench coat from Look 16. Just. Wow!”

Photography by Jason Lloyd-Evans.

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