9 September 2024 |
The 20th anniversary collection was an ode to the joys of life.
In an election year defined by rhetoric around immigration, who exactly gets to live the American dream? It’s a question faced by designers who themselves are immigrants or the children of immigrants. We saw that earlier this week with Willy Chavarria and his vision for América as influenced by his Mexican heritage. It popped up at Prabal Gurung, who closed his show with a colorful nod to Holi, a Hindu festival celebrated in Gurung’s native Nepal while clad in a Kamala Harris t-shirt. For Phillip Lim, the reference was subtle — unless you happened to speak Cantonese. As the 3.1 Phillip Lim finale walked to Faye Wong’s cover of The Cranberries’ Dreams, it was a quiet statement for the Chinese designer, who was born in Thailand, spent time in Cambodia, and speaks Cantonese. For Lim, and his partner Wen Zhou, who also emigrated from China at a young age, the song perfectly encapsulates the East meets West blend that defines their existence. And more literally, it marks the 20th anniversary of their label, an immigrant dream realized.
Making it to such a milestone is no small feat, given that plenty of labels that started circa 2004 have come and gone. The anniversary warranted a celebration and Lim certainly delivered a festive collection. Per the show notes, the starting point was simple: a feeling of joy. It was the emotion that he felt when he moved to New York City, when he made his first pair of trousers, and when the brand debuted to the world.
Opening with a white lace dress worn over matching trousers, the mood started off light and optimistic. The brand’s signature silhouettes like slip dresses and utilitarian jackets and skirts were on full display, showcasing what Lim’s fans want most. Also in the mix were t-shirts with sayings such as Don’t Cry Tonight and Enjoy the Moment, which felt like a throughline given that his I Heart Nueva York tees were a street style hit during the 2010s. The looks weren’t just limited to casual designs as he also included plenty of cocktail appropriate looks. Ranging from sparkly bra tops worn over slouchy cargos to mesh dresses to gowns that were covered in silk rosettes it was a cool take on evening wear. Of note: the floral embellishment holds special significance — Lim considers a representation of the early days as well as the evolution of the brand as it blooms.
Speaking of street style hits, the brand’s now iconic Pashli tote did not make a runway return. Rather it was the brand’s most recent design, the ID bag, as well as a knit mesh style including a special collaboration with the liquor brand Bailey’s. As for the shoes, they were practical yet stylish with flat sandals and kitten heel thongs, including some covered in rhinestones that are sure to be popular. The jewelry, made in conjunction with Pacharee, a Thai-American accessory brand, continued the theme of crossing borders, cultures, and boundaries — a reflection of a shared heritage that comes with growing up Asian American. A fitting finishing touch for a quintessential modern American designer.
All images courtesy of 31.Phillip Lim
