26 September 2022 |
It’s a new dawn at Ferragamo, and Maximilian Davis’ debut at the Tuscan house felt real good. Davis had essentially been instructed to turn up the heat, to make the brand relevant for a younger consumer (Rihanna is amongst his fans) and temperature’s started to rise a few days before the show. A fresh rebrand was announced as Salvatore Ferragamo became mononymous, alongside a sleek modern logo and a new Pantone shade that we’re calling ‘Ferragamo Red’. Inside the palace of the former Archbishop’s Seminary of Milan, the grounds had been covered in fine Ferragamo Red sand – the palace is currently being transferred into a hotel by the Ferragamo family’s Lungarno group. It was here that a new Ferragamo era began. For Davis, it was about Ferragamo’s long-time relationship with the glamour of Hollywood: “I wanted to pay tribute to Salvatore’s start by bringing in the culture of Hollywood – but new Hollywood,” he said. “Its ease and sensuality; its sunset and sunrise.”
That ease was felt as they sauntered through the sand in soft camel-coloured canvas loose suiting, red hot slinky jumpsuits and shiny leather suit jackets paired with matching glossy mini shorts. Sunrises and sunsets brought the spring-summer lightness on degradé prints and hand-dyed ultra-fine knits, a picture-perfect palette taken from Rachel Harrison’s Sunset Series. Hollywood glam was turned up on liquid silk dresses, totally transparent organza dresses and sparkling crystal-embellished trousers that glittered under the grey sky. The sparkle was inspired by the red Dorothy-esque Ferragamo shoes made for Marilyn Monroe in 1959. Davis’ new age of glamour has more grit and rebellion. Accessories fit right in: the Wanda bag – first introduced in 1988, named after Salvatore’s wife – was remixed into new proportions, and a new Elina heel featured a clever cut-out rounded hypnotic heel. “It was about looking into the archive and establishing what could be redefined to become relevant for today… I want each piece to feel playful, but also desirable as an object,” said Davis. “To stand on its own.” Desirable it was. Davis struck the perfect balance in creating a full, wearable Ferragamo wardrobe for a new generation of women and men. After the show, there were whispers comparing Davis’ debut to Phoebe Philo’s at Celine. And with that, we look forward to seeing his fans new and old, including Dua Lipa and A$AP Rocky wearing the revived red hot brand.
Photography courtesy of Ferragamo.
