10 February 2023 |
Back in June, Ecco Leather launched At.Kollektive, a clever scheme which unites leather innovation with visionary design. A group of designers are ensembled to create two collections as part of the collective; each tasked to work with Ecco Leather’s library to create nine meticulously crafted creations which span clothing, footwear, bags, and even furniture. The inaugural design cohort includes former Chloé designer, Natascha Ramsay-Levi and London-based menswear talent Bianca Saunders. Joining them are multidisciplinary, German-born designer Kostas Murkudis and Spanish leather goods specialist, Isaac Reina.
For their sophomore outing, the quartet each celebrate the craft and timelessness associated with leather, while pushing the material’s potentials to new, exhilarating heights.
NATASCHA RAMSAY-LEVI
“For the second collection, I tried to keep the luxury aspect of the first collection, but also take inspiration from the streets. If you think of street sub-cultures and the way people wear leather, there’s a rebellion to it, an attitude. This is what I tried to convey in this collection: very classical pieces, but give them a twist, using neon or crazy prints, for instance. I tried to build a world between the two.
“I’ve always worked for a house, but [my fellow collective members] are three independent designers. I think they have an amazing vision that they own, their own space. Coming from big houses, big budgets, and big collections, it’s been refreshing to work with people who are doing things on their own accord. In this idea of a collective, there is a sense of humility.”
BIANCA SAUNDERS
“This time around, I was definitely thinking more about the user experience and people not being too precious about the objects. Being part of At.Kollektive has allowed me to add accessories to the brand. I haven’t created too many myself before, so it’s nice to be at the beginning phase where I’m able to build upon these ideas and push them forward.
“The whole experience has been really special. I was able to find out so much in terms of leather knowledge and how to push the fabric in terms of experimentation. Working alongside the other designers has been great, we’ve all come from completely different backgrounds and design from different experiences, so having conversations with people who’ve worked for big houses like Helmut Lang and Chloé has been really helpful.”
ISAAC REINA
“The second season sees this kind of contrast between our four different points of view that works well together. I see the collection as a second part to the first; a total continuation of the shapes and colours. I decided to keep the same materials and almost the same colours with a little variation for winter.
“The collaboration has given me new necessities, values and approaches to apply to my own brand. It was a great challenge that gave me a lot of energy and enthusiasm that’ll motivate me moving forward.”
KOSTAS MURKUDIS
“I was heavily inspired by the Roman Architect Francesco Borromini, one of the major architects who shaped the baroque silhouette of Rome as we know it today. I got into his work and ideas after a trip in Rome a while ago. It was very intriguing to me to dive into his world; his way of thinking and his approach to architecture in general. He was trying to find his own way to adapt his knowledge by creating new shapes and solutions – knowing about perspective and the effects of proportions and distances. By combining ovals and circles in an unusual way, he designed new solutions for domes and as a result to that, a new skyline at the time. These shapes are evident in my approach, especially in the shoes and their sole-construction.
“My main interest was to create something hopefully new in the sense that I was combining two contradictory moments of inspiration. I like to explore the potential in the space in between the two worlds, creating “baroque“ or opulent styles without losing my general credo to design objects of complexity without losing the aspect of simplicity.”
Photography by Drew Vickers.
