22 September 2023 |
Featuring swingy fringe, gauzy dresses, and plenty of sharp tailoring.
The energy outside Fondazione Prada was electric as crowds gathered behind barriers in anticipation of the brand’s spring 2024 show. With each chorus of screams, you knew someone major had arrived. The current faces of Prada’s latest ad campaign, Hunter Schafer, Letitia Wright, and Benedict Cumberbatch, were in attendance as was Emma Watson, who fronts Prada Pradaoxe, the brand’s latest fragrance. But the loudest welcomes were saved for the K-Pop idols as the likes of Enhypen and Jeon Somi made their way into space.
Once inside, the space featured a pink lined interior with grates that ran down the center of the runway. Their presence was quickly explained as the clear slime, first seen during Prada’s menswear show, oozed down from pipes in the ceiling. As the first model entered, clad in a gray blazer and shorts paired with chunky brogues, it was clear that tailoring was on Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ mind this season. But lest you think that it would just be sharp jackets and trousers, the looks quickly segued into gauzy dresses, that appeared to float behind the models as they walked. In shades like beige, pink, and blue, these cinematic styles that walked to the music of Alfred Hitchcock’s Vertigo are sure to be favorites for shoots and red carpets alike next season.
Another eye-catching moment was a series of swishy fringed belts extended past shorts, adding extra dimension to the tailored moments. Outerwear, always a strong suit, was equally as interesting, with giant Carhartt-like jackets tossed casually over transparent skirts. For those looking for heftier options, there were oversized leather jackets that are sure to be popular sellers. Rounding out the collection were glittery flapper-like dresses before the finale look, another sharply tailored take on the suit that brought the collection full circle.
As for new handbags, the brand introduced a new style based on a design created in 1913 by Mario Prada, Mrs. Prada’s grandfather and co-founder of the brand. Mario, during his time was a traveler who would bring back curiosities be it English silver, Bohemian crystal, or silks from Asia. These would then be assembled into bags, vanity cases, and other pieces that he called objects of luxury. For the Spring 2024 runway, the brand spun the idea into evening bags made in silk, leather, and re-nylon that feature frame clasps that have hand carved fastening that depicts a mythological figure — a nod to the curios. You’ll also find this clasp on totes.
For the bow, Simons and Mrs. Prada were joined by Fabio Zambernardi, who has served as design director at Prada and Miu Miu since the eighties. Zambernardi is exiting his role and the crowd gave the trio a standing ovation in honor of his time spent at the brand. It’s safe to say the Zambernardi-era will be very much missed.
Images courtesy of Prada.
