27 January 2024 |
Plus Tory Burch x Humberto Leon, Jay Z x Moncler.
The haute couture shows in Paris have come and gone, leaving us with incredible looks and memorable moments — case in point, Schiaparelli’s motherboard baby, Robert Wun’s dynamic duo finale, and Margiela’s cast of characters to name a few. Also making their Paris debut? High jewelry collections. So it’s no surprise that a few garner mentions in this week’s column like Louis Vuitton’s journey through the millennia and Boucheron’s royalty-inspired adornments. Also happening this week, more spring campaigns like Loro Piana’s ode to Japan and Ferrari, starring Anja Rubik. And for those looking to ease the winter blues with a little retail therapy, worry not: Moncler, Tory Burch, Diesel, and COS all have new pieces guaranteed to release some much needed serotonin.
Read on to see what you might have missed this week.
Tory Burch and Humberto Leon Launch a Concept Store
Who had Tory Burch and Humberto Leon collaborating on a retail space in Los Angeles on their 2024 Bingo card? If you did, you must be psychic because the two are indeed working together on a concept store. Opening this week on Melrose Avenue, the space serves to highlight Burch’s resort 2024 collection. The açade and interior feature the work of German photographer
Walter Schels, whose animal portraits appear in the line. It’s meant to be a large-scale game of cat and mouse, with Leon playing on those elements to visually merchandise the interior. To reinforce the message he commissioned artist Aranza Garcia of Chuch Estudio in Merida, Mexico, to create a series of pink ceramic seats in groupings of nine across the space. They perfectly contrast against the shag carpet, which covers the floors, displays, and beams – as if you were in a larger than life cat tower.
You’ll find key items from the collection like the Pierced mule, Lee Radziwill Double Bag, and Kira Diamond Quilt Shoulder Bag as well as the first drop from Burch’s spring 2024 collection. To round it out Leon along with Burch have designed a special Melrose capsule collection of T-shirts, sweatshirts, and totes with abstract Schels portraits of the cat and bunny. You can visit the boutique open through the end of the year at 8483 Melrose Avenue while the Tory Burch flagship on Rodeo Drive is renovated.
Bottega Veneta is in the Mood For Love
Most of the time Valentine’s Day capsule collections are kitschy in a bad way but Bottega Veneta’s offerings make us want to go all in on this Hallmark holiday. Featuring plenty of white, pink, and red, classic styles like the Jodie and Cabat tote are adorned with a tiny heart in the corner. The same motif can also be found on pouches, wallets, and more. For those who prefer their hearts in jewelry form, there are a pair of hoops that can be worn year round. And if you’re looking for riffs on the brand’s spring runway pompoms, the sandals, while not explicitly V-Day themed, will leave you googly eyed.
Loro Piana Heads to Japan
Like literally everyone on your social media feed, Loro Piana is also heading to Japan – or at least their spring collection is. Inspired by the Land of the Rising Sun, the pieces represent a beauty that comes from being in balance be it man and nature, the melding of cultures, or from the combination of organic shapes and modern lines. This translates into a spring campaign featuring the likes of Selena Forrest, Awar Odhiang, Benji Xu, and more depicted in Japanese landscapes, both architectural and rural. Bathed in natural light that serves to enhance the textures of the clothes, each model is depicted alone in their surroundings – the idea is to evoke the country without being overt. Calm and soothing, it’s just the type of relaxing imagery to kick off the new year.
The Perfect Puffer is By Jay-Z
Arguably puffer season starts in November but peak puffer season is right now. And just in time for that is the Moncler x Roc Nation, as designed by Jay-Z. The campaign champions the idea that genius is everywhere – a sentiment which comes from Jay-Z and Roc Nation’s The Art of All interactive sound piece at Moncler’s The Art of Genius event at London Fashion week back in February 2023. Combining their two aesthetics, the collection features classic Moncler silhouettes coupled with boxy t-shirts. You’ll see plenty of layering pieces, all in a gorgeous palette of neutrals with pops of bright orange. If we have to choose a favorite though, it’d be the khaki puffer, reminiscent of a tortoise-shell print — we can’t wait to see it on the streets this winter.
Louis Vuitton Spans the Millennia For Their High Jewelry Collection
Francesca Amfitheatrof has been having an incredible run at Louis Vuitton, as their Artistic Director of Watches and Jewelry. This week, in Paris, the luxury house debuted their fifth high jewelry collection and it was everything you could imagine. Called The Deep Time, it’s a journey through the ages from the birth of the planet to the beginnings of life to the ways our world has transformed as man and nature intersect. With 50 one-of-a-kind pieces, standouts include yellow diamond pieces inspired by the supercontinent Laurasia for their Drift and Myriad themes. Symbiosis, a new theme, draws from fungi and is brought to life courtesy of pastel pink and purple spinels. You’ll also see more literal pieces in the case of Fossils and Plants, with the latter theme featuring a spectacular necklace made from emeralds and diamonds. To finish, Skin (another new theme) celebrates the Umba sapphire while Bones, Seeds, and Flower all call back to the way the passing of time imposes its influence on nature.
Loewe Launches Two New Scents
Fans of Loewe’s unique fragrances will be excited to hear that the Spanish luxury brand is adding two new ones to the line. As conceived by their in-house perfumier, Nuria Cruelles, Solo Vulcan and Agua Drop join the Botanical Rainbow collection. Featuring Accord, a new note based on labdanum, an aromatic oil that comes from rockrose, the latest perfumes offer something whether you’re into woodsy smells or prefer light floral scents. For those who like the former, Solo Vulcan includes thyme, lavender, and vetiver for a mix that is equal parts woody, herbal, and fresh. Like its name implies, it’s meant to evoke fiery volcano eruptions. Fans of the latter will gravitate towards Agua Drop, which has bergamot, orange flower, and absinthe to create a fruity, woody-ambery mix.
Boucheron High Jewelry is Royalty Personified
Considering the amount of adornment that comes with royal ceremonial attire, it’s a no-brainer starting point for a high jewelry collection. And for Boucheron, that’s exactly where Claire Choisne, creative director of Maison Boucheron, chose to draw from for their latest presentation. Consisting of 24 pieces, Choisne said via the press release that she wanted to deconstruct symbols of power to reappropriate them. By using only rock crystal and diamonds, the monochromatic theme gives the normally elaborate and heavy adornment a sense of lightness and modernity. Standouts include a necklace inspired by medals. Consisting of 15 pendants, it along with its complementary clip earrings and two rings took over 2,000 hours to create.
Also of note is a necklace that’s meant to recreate the chevron pattern seen in knitwear that includes a round D VVS2 diamond that weights just over 2 carats. That creation along with its matching cuff bracelet required over 1,000 hours.
More literal adornment references include an epaulets-inspired piece. Choisne drew from a diadem crafted in 1902 for Mary de Teck, the Princess of Wales, injecting a modern twist — they transform into a pair of bracelets. Also nodding to royal fripperies comes a necklace made to resemble a bow, taking a cue from a tiara Boucheron made in the 1900s, as well as a series of 15 white gold buttons that can be worn in the hair, pinned, or slipped into a buttonhole. Aiguillette, the braided decoration seen in ceremonial attire, gets a new life in the form of a braided white gold, rock crystal, and diamond necklace. And finally, fern embroidery that can be seen on attire turns into brooches and hair pieces.
Diesel Joins the Lunar New Year Fray
With the Year of the Dragon a mere two weeks away, Diesel squeaks in with their own Lunar capsule collection. Unlike the other brands which tend to skew more traditional, they stay true to their edgy aesthetic. These pieces may raise a few eyebrows from the grandparents but will definitely be appreciated by your friends. The unisex line naturally features denim, in the form of an oversized, hooded trench, track hoodie, and track pants albeit it’s been reimagined courtesy of a laser print and coating that gives it a distressed look. For a more literal reference there are jersey hoodies and mesh tees covered with an illustrated tattoo print that combines a Chinese dragon as well as the Diesel logo.
COS Drops a Unisex Jewelry Collection
The high jewelry collections offer up plenty of eye candy but for pieces that skew a little more down-to-earth, COS’ unisex line comes at the perfect time. The stackable rings, earrings, bracelets, and charms combine semi-precious stones and recycled material for pieces that can be mixed and matched across the genders. Take for example a dangly pendant that transforms into a creative accessory hanging off the belt loop on a pair of jeans or chunky silver and gold rings that make for a singular statement. Made to be seasonless and classic, these will be a welcome addition when you feel the winter wardrobe doldrums hit.
Ferrari’s Spring Campaign Stars Anja Rubik
The lovefest between fashion and F1 isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. Ferrari, which might be better known for fast cars and skilled drivers Charles LeClerc and Carlos Sainz, can add a new name to their family — Anja Rubik. The model stars in the brand’s spring campaign, as the face of their luxury fashion line. Shot by Willy Vanderperre and called The Power of Desire, the minimal stills focus on the slick clothes designed by Rocco Iannone. Key pieces like racing-inspired gloves and eyewear callback to the Ferrari’s automobile roots while leather dresses and denim suits make a case for chic attire off the racetrack.
