Stepping into the Loewe show felt like entering an art gallery this season. The vast, wooden space was populated by a series of works from five cultural tastemakers, from a Peter Hujar snap of a singular high-heeled shoe, to tiny, bronze rodents from Paul Thek and a hardback copy of Susan Sontag’s Against Interpretation sprawled across the floor.
“Each pursued their work with quite radically,” read the show notes. “In their hands, everyday objects are elevated to the extraordinary.” Responding to such, Anderson set out on creating a collection that was restrained in silhouette and presentation yet profoundly advanced in its textural making. Leading with a procession of slender, ink-black suits, each were fashioned from woven silk mohair to achieve a spongy, almost neoprene-like finish. They were worn with Loewe-branded smocks that danced across models’ torsos up to their necks.
Every corner of the collection was peppered with clever new renderings of the clothes we see day-to-day. Like cable knit jumpers, reimagined into XXL trousers that ballooned at the ankle. Or short and T-shirt twin sets, lined with gold and stiff in appearance, which looked like fine crockery. There were also conjoined polo shirts and slacks with an elongated belt that snaked from one garment to the other, while a leather trench coat was frozen to look as if it was caught in a gust of wind. It was another knockout from Anderson, whose inquisitiveness to toy with what’s right in front of us makes his design language so thrilling.
Photography courtesy of Loewe.
