Daniel Lee sees a softer side to heritage dressing.
After jaunting off to London’s green parks, Daniel Lee decided to take things indoors for his summer 2025 outing at Burberry. Set at The National Theatre, a performing arts venue known for its Brutalist design, Lee tapped artist Gary Hume to create an original piece for the set. Inspired by his installation Bays, which was first shown as a part of the East Country Yard Show in 1990, the greenish-blue rectangles lent a softer tone to the harsh lines that dominate the interior. It also happened to reflect a commitment by the brand to work with UK-based artists, as they’ve also worked with the likes of Sarah Lucas and John Akomfrah.
Featuring a front row stacked with the likes of Barry Keoghan, Jodie Turner Smith, and Gabrielle Union, Lee offered a new interpretation of the brand’s heritage. With soothing tones of beige, gray, and pastel blue, the first look consisted of a military-inspired cutaway coat worn over khaki trousers and accented with purple sneakers. Cargo trousers lent an air of casualness to the collection, worn with matching jackets or contrasted with cropped tops or sequined tanks. Outerwear, always a mainstain for Burberry, went lighter as there were classic trenches along with capelets accented with feathery trim as well as slouchy parkas and cinched bombers. The signature Burberry plaid appeared in pops courtesy of the straps on the handbags that adorned looks.
Menswear was a strong suit but also of note were the evening options with sequined dresses scattered throughout. The winner of the bunch? The closing look by Liu Wen, a shimmering golden creation designed for a red carpet moment in the near future.