30 September 2024 |
A haunting ode to banshees.
In Irish folklore, the banshee is a woman to be feared as she wails to foretell death and doom. But for McQueen’s Creative Director Seán McGirr, she’s more complex, representing a part of his childhood via a story his mother tells. In his mind, she’s a figure who has feelings and represents a guiding force. Not coincidentally, the banshee is also a figure that’s rooted in the history of the brand and the inspiration for his sophomore runway collection. Set at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, the show space featured an installation by Tom Scutt that consisted of a silver runway nestled between a jagged tear through the stone floor, highlighting the contrast between modernity and history.
As the show opened with plumes of smoke emerging from the sides of the runway, the eerie atmosphere set the tone. With a soundtrack featuring a roster of British artists that spanned the decades and genres ranging from Andy Stott to Florence Sinclair to The Fall, the show began with crisp tailoring, a staple for the brand. The first look, worn with a high-collared blouse, showcased the contrast between the sharp and soft – a theme that would continue on. Strong-shouldered jackets worn with translucent white chiffon shirting called back to the heritage of McQueen, especially when paired with teetering platforms. From there the show segued into gauzy dresses as well as cobweb lace pieces that were hand-stitched to create the illusion that they could crumble at the merest whisper of a breeze. Delicate, they brought to mind the work of McGuirr’s predecessors.
The real winners, though? The hand-shredded silk chiffon pieces that came towards the end of the show: A jacket that seemingly looks like shearling from afar but is made from the same fabric manipulation while dreamy dresses brought to mind trains that could have conceivably been made from a banshee’s hair. Also to note were all the embroidered details like dresses which had original artwork as well as jackets with three-dimensional gold metal that glimmered in the light.
As for the accessories, the brand called back to its British heritage with shoes that featured brogue detailing while the bags were made with classic curved silhouettes and finished with the brand’s signature t-bar. Some included playful charms like roses, dangling from the straps – a sign that the trend is still going strong. And finally, the jewelry called back to the banshee theme, with objects that related to her lore including a hairbrush pin covered in chains and dangling earrings that resembled teeth. A perfectly eerie finishing touch to the collection indeed.
