2 October 2026 |
PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI ASKS WHAT COUTURE CAN BE, IF IT WERE EVERYDAY WEAR.
When you think of couture, it’s almost an elusive, fantasy term. Visions of elaborate gowns with makeup to match immediately come to mind. To own a one-of-kinda piece fitted to your exact dimensions is the stuff of fashion dreams. And yet, what if this was an everyday reality? That’s the question Pierpaolo Piccioli grapples with for Balenciaga’s spring 2027 collection. Taking techniques that started off at the brand’s 55th couture collection, Piccioli adapted them to his ready-to-wear clothes, making the ordinary extraordinary or conversely, grounding lofty ideas. To him, this is a sort of humanity — the idea that expert hands have physically touched every aspect of the creation process is a hallmark of couture and the kind of attention that regular clothes deserve too.
Staged at Tennis Club de Paris, guests were greeted with a piece by French artist Aude Franjou as they entered. Titled “ Les Coraux de la Liberté”, the wrapped linen creation in shades of orange in red resembles a tree, vine, or blood vessels depending on your perspective. Whatever you see, it’s meant to represent something that’s breathing and alive — an analogy for the clothes on the runway. The piece also served as a handy backdrop for front row guests with the likes of Shailene Woodley, Lola Tung, Gemma, Chan, Sarah Pidgeon, and Havana Rose Liu among the stars coming to support Piccioli. Also making an appearance, sitting minutes before the show began was Lauryn Hill.
Consider her presence a big clue for the music as the song that played as the first looks walked out was a version of “Ready or Not.” Opening with a peplum white shirt worn over jeans, it was clear that Piccioli is taking basics and making them anything but boring. As such other staples like t-shirts, bombers, cargo pants, and more get the same treatment. From injecting volume into leather and cotton pieces to creating basque shapes as a reference to iconic Balenciaga silhouettes on tees and jackets, it’s meant to bring classic techniques into modern day. Also of note is the use of bias cut, which you’d normally find in women’s evening looks, applied to denim, button ups, and men’s suiting — a nod to the fact that he’s appealing to a client base that’s more interested in design versus shopping along traditional gender lines.
To complement each look, there were plenty of accessories. Over on the shoes side, Piccioli introduced the Wave thong sandal, the Lounge sneaker, and the Dahlia mule. As for bags you’ll find the Nodo shoulder style and Silhou tote in the mix. But of course, the most popular among customers will likely be the classic Rodeo and City bags (plenty of both were spotted in the audience) in an array of colors and materials. A little old, a little new, all reimagined for 2026 feels very fitting for Pierpaolo.
