30 January 2026 |
In a shock announcement, Pieter Mulier has left Alaïa.
This afternoon, the maison confirmed that the Belgian designer has stepped down from the house he revitalised. Long regarded as one of the most technically assured designers working today, Mulier’s exit comes amidst rumours he will imminently join Versace.
His departure closes an important chapter at Alaïa. Appointed in 2021, Mulier was tasked with continuing the legacy of Azzedine Alaïa, a designer defined by precision, intimacy and a rigorous focus on the female form. Rather than attempting to reinterpret the house through disruption, Mulier worked within its established codes, modernising them with discipline and restraint.
During his tenure, he repositioned Alaïa for a new generation. Collections balanced archival reference with contemporary construction: knitwear became more structured, leather more fluid, and the house’s body-conscious approach was reaffirmed without feeling dated. His shows, often intimate in scale, avoided excess and placed emphasis on cut, material and proportion. Ready-to-wear was treated with couture-level attention, reinforcing the maison’s commitment to craftsmanship.
Mulier’s impact was felt both commercially and culturally. He restored Alaïa’s relevance within the Paris fashion landscape while maintaining its traditionally private, atelier-led approach. Industry figures frequently described his collections as deeply considered rather than nostalgic, grounded in respect for both the archive and the wearer. His final collection for the house, staged in Paris last October, was a triumph, continuing Alaïa’s quiet evolution with clothes that feel intentional, tactile and built to last beyond a single season.
Alaïa has yet to name a successor. Whoever steps into the role will inherit a house stabilised and clearly defined after Mulier’s tenure.
Portrait courtesy of Alaïa.
