2 October 2026 |
“This season felt very free,” said Chemena Kamali of her SS27 Chloé collection, There was a sense that she left it all on the field with this show, drilling deep into the Chloé DNA and showcasing details and finishes that exemplify the house.
“All I wanted to do was follow all of my obsessions I have for Chloé, all of the creative fixations that I feel through my creative process, things that I always loved. Things that I return to. I wanted to let those obsessions lead the way this season, it was very intuitive.”
She went to the archive, reviving the scallop-edged embroidery used by Karl Lagerfeld on a 1972 trouser suit, and taking inspiration from 3D flower embroideries from the 1960s for halter neck maxi dresses and charming little baby doll dresses. The workmanship was “couture level savour faire,” she said. Kamali packed the collection with artisanship, from the lavish fringing and lace that opened the show, to the delicate lace and chiffon body suits worn with ball skirts for the finale. The designer scooped-out and squared off the necklines for jackets and macs. “I really designed from the neckline downwards,” she said.
Her other obsession was Chloé rainwear from the 1950s. With voluminous macs and clear vinyl pop-over coats, “You really still see the structure and the detail and the functionality and have that sort of almost X-ray effect,” she said. She played through with big volumes, from oversized baby dolls, to cape-like coats.
“The gesture of just throwing a cape on top of the silhouette, it’s something I always love to do with something I almost love to wear myself.” The Paris rumour mill is suggesting this could be her final collection for the house. If so, she’s going out in a high. It was Chloé to the core.
Photography courtesy of Chloé.
