26 February 2024 |
Giorgio Armani wanted to send a message of hope and grace with his AW24 show which focused on the healing power of nature.
The show opened with, Gina di Bernardo, a favourite face of the house in the 1980s, wearing a soft, graceful coat worn with silk pyjamas underneath and a floral appliqué felt hat. The look telegraphed Armani’s trademark easy elegance.
Flowers were the main motif of a collection that thrilled with gentle whimsy. They may be more often associated with spring, but Mr Armani sees winter flowers as a sign of hope, beauty and regrowth. They came on sun faded tapestry coats, printed onto sumptuous velvet jackets and appeared on vivid silk coats and evening gowns as intense embroideries. The effect was mood enhancing and uplifting. Flowers featured on all the accessories too, including wide cummerbund belts, roomy tote bags, silk head scarves and embroidered boots.
The silhouettes were soft, easy, sensual and enveloping. All harshness and sharpness was banished. Instead, fluid coats worn over liquid silk trousers, easy jackets in the softest silk velvet, and delicate flower-strewn gowns projected a feeling of poetic romance.
There was a playful eccentricity to some of the pieces – especially after dark. One evening cape cape was made of organza flowers applied to a cage of silk ribbons, a velvet coat was dotted with sequin petals, a humming bird embroidery fluttered over inky velvet jackets, charming rows of bows forming the asymmetrical straps on an being gown and a vivid pink flower embroidered organza opera coat offering a soaring sense of lightness. The mood was uplifting, whimsical and romantic then soared like an operatic aria with spectacular crystals embroideries on velvet evening jackets and gowns.
Photography courtesy of Giorgio Armani.
