10 February 2024 |
Peter Do’s vision for Helmut Lang is beginning to blossom. Following on from his debut for the storied New York label back in September, for his second outing, Do was distinctly more confident in making Lang codes his own, all while stearing the label down fresh avenues. With original Lang muse Kirsten Owen opening the show, Do cleverly revisited a bubble wrap jacket first debuted during Lang’s SS03 menswear show – reinterpreting such out of silk to craft loosely-cut shirts, semi-opaque trousers and bullet proof-style vests.
In his show notes, Do explained he’d been thinking about themes of protection and projection, and how our clothes serve as armour as we move through the everyday. Models came in heavy swollen parkas, shiny down jackets with cocooning collars, and ribbed knits that migrated into balaclavas. Do also lifted Lang’s “Chinatown bag” to dress up men’s co-ords and fringed wrap-around skirts, and punctured holes across form-fitting tops, dresses and suits so they appeared as if they were made from fish scales. It was Do’s brilliant approach to cut and silhouette that was the real star here though. His tailoring was sharp and equipped with darts and seams that traced the body in gorgeous formations, laying the groundwork for Do as he pushes Helmut Lang into its next era.
Photography by Bella Macgregor.
