For Hublot and Samuel Ross, It’s a Shared Love of Innovation

The two debuted the latest Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A by Samuel Ross in Miami.

Spend five minutes with Samuel Ross and you’ll realize quickly why he’s technically Dr. Samuel Ross, M.B.E. The designer and artist who founded A-Cold-Wall* in 2015 before starting SR_A in 2019 is passionate about creating, whether through clothes, art installations, or on this occasion, celebrating his third watch made in conjunction with Hublot. The Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A by Samuel Ross is his most ambitious to date and reflects his desire to play and innovate with materials. “I had this idea for Hublot to move into a new chapter, which is a bit more discerning and utilitarian. By leaning into the fact that it’s not a midcentury Swiss watchmaking brand, it’s actually a strength,” he says. “If we can find a way to have a really bold and emotional language that is rooted in your material story, that feels valuable and a conversation worth having.”

Working together was a long process, one that began with Ross winning Hublot’s Design Prize in 2019. According to the designer, that was all a part of a bigger plan, a means to get in front of executives in order to pitch his vision for a more extended partnership. In 2020, in honor of Hublot’s 40th anniversary, Ross created Reform, a sculpture that combined organic materials like stone with industrial details, setting the foundation for his first watch, a riff on the brand’s signature Big Bang. “When we released the orange model, it was a shock. We need to say something that was against the grain,” he recalls. The color was eye-catching, deliberately inorganic, and statement making. Version two saw a green strap and reflected a desire to be among nature, as the world emerged from the pandemic. It was also a chance for Ross to play with titanium details. To him, it’s a rhythm between designs that were deeply saturated and others that were more pared back, with a focus on materiality. 

For 3.0, Ross still had the natural world on his mind. “Blue is interesting and reflects a desire to be next to nature or close to organic materials. You’ve got these different shades that reflect like shorelines. I yearn to be around water even if I don’t get a lot of time to do so,” he explains. As for the timepiece itself, it’s hefty clocking in at 44mm in diameter, which was also the case for prior iterations, and 13.75 mm in thickness. In contrast, the details are delicate and reflect attention to detail. You’ll notice a mix of satin and shiny micro blasted finish on the bezel as well as a honeycomb pattern that repeats both on the watch as well as the strap itself. For the hands and hour markers, Ross calls back to the strap, with two shades of blue while the lighter shade can also be found on the crown molding. And finally, a skeleton tourbillon is in full view at 6 o’clock. With only 50 available worldwide, even the box is a collector’s item with a sleek black design that brings to mind a fancy video game console or top secret spy briefcase.

While owning the watch might prove to be difficult, seeing it in the flesh was a bit easier. To celebrate the formal unveiling during Art Basel, what else but a cocktail party full of great drinks and good music? Drawing the likes of Joe Jonas, Usain Bolt, Kimberly Drew, and Mexican actress and singer Belinda Peregrin, and featuring a DJ set by Meduza, the vibes were high. And for Hublot, that sort of emotion drives their brand, says Julian Tornare, the newly appointed CEO. “Like many luxury goods, you don’t need a watch. You buy it because it makes you feel good.” And clearly, the room was feeling good.

Samuel Ross, Samuel Ross & Usain Bolt, Joe Jonas, Julian Tornare, Aurora Anthony, Kimberly Drew, Meduza, Belinda Peregrin

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