Is LA Fashion Week Exciting Again?

Luis de Javier made a bold case for it.

When it comes to fashion shows in Los Angeles, one-off productions from well-known luxury brands like Chanel and Versace usually garner the most buzz. But on Saturday night in Hollywood, all eyes were on Luis de Javier. Last week the emerging London-based designer announced his collaboration with Riccardo Tisci, the former creative director at Burberry and Givenchy. Tisci, who met de Javier via photographer Steven Klein, saw potential in the young talent and offered to mentor him. The result is de Javier’s Spring 2024 collection called “La Ruta del Bacalao”, a dark and moody presentation that drew a crowd of friends, family, and club kids, all jostling for a good vantage point.

Before the show, Tisci took to Instagram to congratulate his protege on his LA debut: “I’m so happy to have been at your side to guide you through this experience! My greatest reward has been to see you soak it all in, and to see you draw and style with such passion! My final piece of advice: enjoy the show, truly and deeply, because first times only come once.”

Prior to meeting Tisci, the Central Saint Martins alum worked under Viviene Westwood and Gareth Pugh before launching his own label in 2020. Then Julia Fox wore his devil-horned dress at New York Fashion Week, which helped the young designer make a name for himself. Since then, De Javier has dressed the likes of Beyoncé, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, and Kylie Jenner in his signature liquid leather and latex sportswear.

For spring 2024, de Javier reimagined the 90s hardcore rave movement in Spain called “La Ruta del Bakalao”, which was shut down by an oppressive movement. “Fashion has always mirrored and explored socio-political issues,” said De Javier. “With this collection, we want to reflect, question and spark a dialogue on pressing matters, like the rise of a nationalist, far-right political party, that are affecting Spain and the world today.” That translated into a 25 look collection marked by genderfluid corsets, puffed-sleeves, leather jackets with biker armor, and the designer’s signature devil-horned silhouettes. It’s hard not to notice the queerness of it all — he deftly blurs the confines of masculinity, moving toward a more inclusive display of queer bodies and bold expressions of unabashed sex appeal.

After the show, he took to Instagram to thank his mentor and profess his plans for the future. “Last night was only the beginning. Ready to deliver sex on legs every season. Thank you to my mentor Riccardo Tisci for guiding me through this new chapter, I will hold this forever in my heart.”