Magliano SS25 was a poignant homage to childhood memories with a rebellious twist. Devoted to “those tender and fleeting memories that catch up to us like unexpected storms”, the show took attendees on a journey through the landscapes of the past, where silhouettes were minimal yet laden with intricate detailing.
Looks harked back to the 2000s with a streamlined, almost gaunt appearance. That means coats were oversized and paired with unconventional additions like beach towels, while trousers were versatile, doubling as swimwear, and eveningwear maintained an ethereal, fantasy-like quality. High-visibility reflectors and racing car motifs combined to create the standout Effe 10 shoe, while vimini baskets, repurposed as jewellery and belts, added a rustic charm.
Naming the collection’s hero as Pinocchio, the classic Disney character became a symbol of transformation and whimsy. Workwear took on new life, with aprons reimagined as chic formal wear. Fluid shirting was worn unbuttoned and skin-baring, while oversized tailoring and knit cardigans were embellished by floral embroidery. Other graphics included cigarette-smoking snakes on mohair Cormio/Magliano jumpers or nervous, lovestruck rats in acid-hues on T-shirts.
Queer themes were thoughtfully woven throughout, with heartfelt chemsex imagery presented in prints reminiscent of Giorgio Morandi’s still lifes; one shirt was printed with a pencil-like still life drawing featuring a broken iPhone, a bottle of Coke and many, many dildos. Cross-stitching details brought a sense of childhood whimsy, yet carried a deeper political message as it composed strings of Google searches, from poetry to porn, with added fragments of notable people.
The collection was a testament to the power of memory and imagination; transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary to challenge societal conventions the way Magliano best knows how.
Photography courtesy of Magliano.
