24 September 2023 |
Stepping to the hand-paced rhythm of drums, the SS24 outing from MM6 Maison Margiela overflowed with a relaxed attitude, soft proportions and deceptively low-key tailoring. From thick ribbon curtains, models strode into a dark atmosphere wearing floor-length tailored jackets, netted tops woven with wire, T-shirts with six-patch pockets and slip dresses cut like one-shouldered aprons. There was something radical to the way ensembles were put together – everything was abstracted in classic MM6 style, but straightforward in silhouette.
Starting with the hand – exploring how certain postures and gestures could define a piece of clothing from the way its pockets were placed to interpretations of MM6 staples like the butcher apron and the lab coat – the collection uncovered the fun that lies within function. Tapping into muscle memories of manual labour, footwear – round toe boots and mary janes – were shaped after kitchen safety shoes. There were Anatomic Toe Clogs and a new iteration of the Salomon Mary Janes’ too.
Hands came into play again as they were used to adapt the utilitarian garms to the body with ribbons, slits, full side openings and ties. Body language softened the rigidity of the denims, robust canvases and pragmatic polycottons used.
It was all quite meta – though we’d expect nothing less from MM6. On an ‘Allongè’ T-shirt the word ‘Allongè’ (meaning ‘elongate’ in English) was literally stretched and printed on chests. ‘Mat’, ‘Satinè’ and ‘Brillant’ were carved onto a wax-dipped top and peppered asymmetric, lightweight vests. The show’s invitation was impressed on sleeveless, knee-length hoodies and off-the-shoulder aprons.
Stamps morphed into lengthy chain necklaces and keys became earrings; melted candles dripped from jewellery into sculptural tops; paper bags became handbags; handbags doubled as elongated vests.
Between the blacks and whites were pops of electric blue and calm camels. MM6 doubled down and put its deft hands to work.
Photography courtesy of MM6 Margiela.
