13 September 2025 |
Inspired by the future of New York, this collection teased a more playful side.
Friday for the students of the New Design High School on New York’s Lower East Side was no ordinary school day. Off-White took over the space for their spring 2026 collection, “Pop Romance” and the lucky teenagers were a part of the event. Guests like Mary J Blige, Busta Rhymes, Honey Dijon, and Ellie the Elephant were greeted by cheering students in a spirited welcome tunnel before heading up to the rooftop runway.
When attendees made the climb, they stepped out into a pastel colored day dream. Against the light pinks and purples of the basketball court and a backdrop decorated with graffiti by four local artists, Daze, Lady Pink, Mast, and CES celebrating the five boroughs, Ib Kamara’s collection tried to stretch the limits of formal wear in search of the perfect alchemical balance with streetwear.
You could see this play out with tension between slinky sheer fabrics against more structured silhouettes and the graphic abstractions of New York. The latter were reminiscent of airbrushed shirts, and lent a casualness to more delicate dresses. Masculine uniforms were more sensual while womenswear gained a sense of business from the added shoulderpads. A soft pair of bowling brogues in cream with the perforated arrow motif and a horse-like kitten mule with a cushioned instep continued this challenging of preconceived expectations on the ground.
It’s when the looks hew closer to how current New Yorkers dress that more fun began to be had. A denim shearling power-coat paired with matching shorts barely touching the rim of the boots made for a MJB-style dance break. Meanwhile a tie dye print bleeding across suits brought to mind paint soaking onto a page. And a reappearing tool-belt now in denim hanging off the hips with the pockets pushed to the edges felt winkingly tough. In a city meant to see and be seen, what risk will you take next?
