Old Navy x Anna Sui Brings Back the Grunge Dress

We chat with the designer and Zac Posen on nineties memories, their relationship, and favorite pieces from the collaboration

To say that Anna Sui is having a renaissance would be doing the designer an injustice — she’s never really left the cultural conversation. It’s just that an entirely new generation has come to discover her rocker-meets-bohemian designs, reigniting the same passion that’s been driving her fans since 1991. Known as fashion’s wild child, with a fully realized worldview that’s instantly recognizable, Sui has been an icon of American fashion and ushered in silhouettes that have now become classics. From baby doll dresses to whimsical peasant blouses to vintage-inspired fur coats, no one does downtown New York City cool better. And it’s this ability that makes her a natural fit for Old Navy’s first designer collaboration. 

Available today, the capsule collection (as modeled by PinkPantheress) dives into Sui’s expansive archive and plucks out pieces that are guaranteed to please. You’ll find floral prints that date back to the nineties, ruffly blouses, and laser printed denim alongside boho dresses and even a faux fur trimmed coat that feels like it could have been plucked out of a Sui’s shop in 1998. With that in mind, Sui along with Zac Posen, Old Navy’s Chief Creative Officer sat down with 10 Magazine to talk through the collection, their favorite memories of one another, and why New York during the eighties and nineties warrants our nostalgia. 

  1. Zac, what made you want to approach Anna for this collaboration?

There was nobody I wanted more. I knew that we’re launching our first designer collaboration and I wanted it to be centered around great American talent for a great American brand. Anna is always timeless, but this moment really captured the mix of playfulness and joy that our customer is looking for.

  1. Anna, what drew you to this collaboration?

Well, it’s been amazing working with Zac and his incredible team. I love the fact that they were so open to incorporating so much of my DNA from my brand into this collection. When you go through it, you’ll see vintage, a bohemian feel, and signature prints from past collections. They went through my archives, picked out specific styles, but also the whole flavor of the collection I think has a lot of Anna Sui in it. 

  1. Take us through the collection. What was the experience like since you have such a vast archive?

AS: I love the fact that they were so open to adding in the vintage floral prints. There are so many great artisanal details from applique to the lace trim to the velvet flocking print on tote bags and t-shirts. We have the signature Anna Sui t-shirt that’s so collectible along with some new additions as well. The fact that this is going to be accessible to so many more people is the most exciting thing for me.

  1. What are some of the highlights?

ZP: The grunge dress! Anna’s famous for changing the fashion world, making them wake up to what was happening and how women wanted to dress and girls. And to be able to bring a piece of history to our customer is so cool. If I wore dresses, I’d be in that in a minute. We also did this cool laser print with a butterfly, and it comes as a barn jacket, low-rise kind of flare crop jean, and a miniskirt.

  1. If you each had to choose a favorite, what would it be?

AS: I’m wearing it right now — the heavy satin long slip skirt in a signature lavender color. It also comes in the little rosebud print.

ZP: You know, that’s like picking a favorite family member! There’s this little printed boho dress that’s kind of cropped and off the shoulder and this amazing vegan leather faux fur collar jacket that’s the ultimate buy now, wear now layering piece. I love the mesh pieces, too. I think they’re really cool. 

  1. You two have had a longstanding relationship. Can you share any favorite memories?

AS: I remember the first time I saw you, you were already a buzz in the fashion world. Maybe it was Da Silvano, maybe it was Bar Pitti. You sat outside, it was one of those hot summer days and you came over to my table.

ZP: Oh, that’s cool! I’ve been a fan of Anna’s pretty much as long as I can remember. I grew up around Spring Street near her iconic Soho store that was there for many years. It was one of the first fashion stores in the neighborhood and a window into seeing a creator build their world. The level of culture and theatricality with pop culture was something that I was drawn to. That sense of history is something we share. 

I remember seeing Anna in New York with her crew. That felt really cool. Growing up in the late eighties and nineties in New York, I couldn’t wait to go to rock shows, and those rock girls of that time were my girlfriends. I remember being 16, meeting Bijou Phillips, and I’m sure she was wearing Anna Sui. It was a moment and a time.

  1. Can you describe each other with just one word?

AS: Magic, you’re magical.

ZP: Wisdom.

  1. Zac, since you did touch upon nostalgia for the eighties, nineties, early aughts in New York City, Anna, do you have a favorite memory from that era?

It was probably the time when I lived the least in nostalgia. Looking back, it was such an incredible seismic change in not only fashion, but the arts and music. There were alternative bands, alternative film directors, and everybody was centered in New York. Wherever you went: restaurant, club, whatever, anybody that was promoting a new movie or a new album, you would see them out. It was an amazing time and I’m so grateful that I was here when that happened. 

  1. Anna, Sandy Liang mentioned that the two of you get together for amazing dinners. What’s your go-to spot and order?

I was there last night — Bar Pitti. I love it. It hasn’t changed at all and the food is clean, amazing Italian food. I get the meatballs, the rigatoni is also really good and the spinach is great. 

  1. Zac, you’re a big cook. What’s your favorite for fall?

We’re in squash season so I love pureed soup. It’s pretty simple — an onion, a sweet potato, your squash. You can add a tablespoon of a red or white miso to that. Yummy and healthy. 

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