11 October 2023 |
It’ll run through February at the Design Museum.
Alexander McQueen, J.W. Anderson, Simone Rocha might be familiar names for anyone who follows fashion but at one point in their careers, they were students looking for their big break. The way they got that opportunity? The British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN Initiative, which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Established in 1993 to help emerging designers showcase their works at London Fashion Week, it’s become the launching point for countless names in the years since. In honor of this big milestone, the BFC along with the Design Museum have an exhibit called “REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion” which will run through February 2024.
“The exhibit is a walk down memory lane for me, unearthing so many memories from the last 30 years, especially through the brilliant never seen before archive imagery of Lee McQueen’s early collections with contributions from Simon Ungless,” says Caroline Rush CBE, CEO of the BFC. Guest curated by Sarah Mower, MBE as well as Rebecca Lewin, the museum’s senior curator, you’ll find over 100 looks organized into several rooms. Upon entry there’s a space dedicated to Alexander McQueen while another, called “Art School”, is devoted to the influence that institutions like Central Saint Martins and Royal College of Art have on budding designers. Other notable sections include “Club”, a nod to the ways nightlight and subcultures have infused themselves into British fashion as well as “Change-Makers”, dedicated to designers forging their own way.
Those interested in seeing Marjan Pejoski’s infamous swan dress as worn by Bjork or Harry Styles’ S.S. Daley ensemble are in luck, as they’re among the many notable garments featured in the exhibit. Whether you’re looking for Richard Quinn and Mary Katrantzou’s over-the-top floral gowns or interested in Christopher Kane’s subversive debut collection, there is plenty to take in, a testament to the BFC’s goal of encouraging new talent. “NEWGEN designers have a strong sense of community in that they collectively create a new blueprint for how fashion businesses are run, and always find new and interesting ways to push forward societal conversations – something that we continue to see mimicked globally,” says Rush.
Running a successful fashion business beyond their time at NEWGEN remains a difficulty for emerging designers. For every Stuart Vevers and Kim Jones there are countless others who weren’t able to keep their brands afloat. But even so, Rush remains optimistic, citing the breadth of the exhibit as proof that this sort of structural support remains more important than ever. With a two million pound cash infusion from the government, designed to help the next wave of talent, the future looks bright. “The UK fashion industry is harder to navigate than ever, with businesses facing inflation, the consequences of Brexit, and fast approaching regulation from the EU. Strengthening and future proofing the pipeline of creative talent is crucial now more than ever. We look forward to the next thirty years, and hope to continue to support 300 more designers!”
Tickets for REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion are available here and can be booked through January 2024.
