29 September 2024 |
Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli took a more casual turn this season, doing away with the extravagance and harnessing timelessness in its place. Think stretch-corseted tennis polos paired with rolled-up wraparound skirts and boxy tailoring. Calling the collection Vintage Furniture, the American designer set out to create clothing not just for his clients, but for their “daughters and granddaughters”.
That meant knitwear was reimagined to be richer, original and lighter weight, taking shape as “trick-of-the-eye” menswear staples that were modified to glorify the female figure. A cropped jacket with oversized sleeves was paired with slouchy summer shorts. A dark denim halter-neck dress (that also came in a red sand hue) offered modernity with a femme fatale edge. Fabric plaits suspended from angular waists on Grecian-style skirts and from throats like neck ties, while a striped bodycon with a Bridgette Bardot-type vibe was finished with a tromp l’oeil tie-waist.
Many of the looks were paired with asymmetric gold earrings and atop anatomical slip-on footwear. And while the colourways remained muted, with pearlescent whites and blacks, one corseted gown appeared in vivid crimson, its shade reminiscent of a Mondrian painting. A glistening knit dress coated with metallic aquamarine and a baggy zebra-print set took notes from ‘80s power dressing.
Slung under arms, the bags, now integral to the maison’s identity, returned in fresh hues – classics like the Secret bag with its emblematic Padlock clasp, the Jewelry Anatomy range, the new Hobo bag, sleek and stylish in spray-painted suede, zebra jacquard and faded heavy cotton.
The last look out was made up of billowing satin trousers and a sequin-embroidered bodysuit. Lavish and bursting with vibrant flora, called to a close a great show of generationless dressing.
Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.
