19 February 2024 |
She literally took us to church for fall 2024.
What a six months it must have been for Simone Rocha. After a stunning spring 2024 show that left showgoers marveling at her ability to innovate while remaining true to her aesthetic, Rocha showed her deft hand at couture. As the guest couturier for Jean Paul Gaultier, she combined Gaultier’s signature corsetry with her darkly romantic silhouettes to great success. It turns out there was a master plan behind all of this with fall 2024 being the culmination. Rocha called spring “The Dress Rehearsal” while couture represented “The Procession”. Now, the triptych is complete with “The Wake.”
Set in St. Bartholomew the Great, better known as the church from Four Weddings and a Funeral, the incense-filled space could not be a better fit for those who come to worship at Rocha’s altar. Opening with a sheer coordinating set that featured bloomers with a furry bottom, it was clear that she had a sexier woman in mind. The silhouettes were more body conscious in the past, a continuation of the ideas presented during couture. Complete with glittery adornments on the chest, it was clear that Rocha was here to celebrate the female body. Corsets and see-through skirts covered in paillettes hugged and revealed, but it was never jarring — her devotees would gladly mix in these pieces with their existing wardrobes.
That’s not to say Rocha has strayed too far from the voluminous shapes she’s beloved for. A high-necked billowy cape followed by a mint green bubble-like dress are sure to please. The latter was paired with what has become a much talked about bag. Instead of the perspex styles in shapes like an egg, wedding cake, and star, she opted for a softer style this year. It appeared to be an alpaca but upon further inspection, it’s hard to say. From certain angles it resembled in equal parts dinosaur and unicorn. Whatever it may be, they evoked a child-like squeal of joy from attendees.
Bows, another Rocha mainstay, aren’t going anywhere. While other brands have come to adopt this motif, she doubles down, layering them in multiples to create massive earrings that dangle down to the shoulders. And last season’s roses? Instead of wearing them sewn into your dress, she decided they’d replace the models’ eyebrows, with the blooms arcing over each eye.
Per the show notes the looks were meant to be an exploration of Queen Victoria’s mourning dress and nowhere was that more evident than in the finale looks. The long black gowns complete with straps and gauzy layers transformed funeral wear into subversive, seductive designs. It’s a fitting ending — Rocha has successfully taken us to four weddings and a funeral in 2024.
