29 January 2026 |
At Viktor & Rolf’s awe-inspiring SS26 couture show, the Dutch design duo quite literally built their final look in front of the fash pack – taking a single element from each look before it and applying it to a wondrously colourful, flying kite dress. Each preceding ensemble was jet black, zeroing in on silhouette, material and construction, but featured a single, technicolour attachment such as a collar, a cape, bow, rod or pannier. Then, live and in front of the audience, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren removed that effervescent element and applied it to the model behind them who was, at first, clad in a high-collar, belted, white minidress. Look after look – blousy gowns, floor-sweeping triangular gowns, structured maxi dresses – she transformed like a butterfly emerging from her cocoon, into a dramatic, show-stopping assemblage of neon hues that formed the shape of a kite – a symbol of cheer and levity. Eventually, she took flight, inciting a riotous chorus of oohs and aahs that cut through the sinister soundtrack like a rainbow might when it emerges through the clouds on a dreary day.
Calling the collection Diamond Kite, the pair set out to reimagine “freedom through the lens of childhood wonder, imagination, and the transformative power of elevation”. They did so effectively, tapping into crayon-like colours and a childlike sense of fantasy. Simultaneously, the kite dress functioned as a tribute to Kate Bush’s The Kick Inside album cover which has inspired the designers since their start more than 30 years ago. Viktor and Rolf have fantasia in their pocket. Watch them soar.
Photography courtesy of Viktor & Rolf.
