Erdem’s 20th anniversary, a King Charles III appearance, and more.
Eight months into Laura Weir’s tenure as CEO of the British Fashion Council and things couldn’t look better. London fashion week fall 2026 kicked off on a high note, as King Charles III made a surprise visit to Tolu Coker’s runway show, a moment captured widely across social media. That was the point: “It was a reminder of what London does best: we don’t follow a formula. We set the cultural temperature,” said Weir as she addressed international press and buyers, welcoming them to the city. And if setting the cultural temperature was her mission, it was clear she succeeded. Stalwarts like Simone Rocha set the internet ablaze with news of her Adidas collaboration while Burberry closed the week with plenty of star wattage, set against Tower Bridge. In between, plenty of new and established designers made their mark. From Erdem’s 20th anniversary show to an exciting debut from Thevxlley, a name to watch, Weir put it best, “This is a city of ideas. This is an industry of resilience. This is a community of extraordinary talent.”
Read on for our editors’ top moments.
Erdem Celebrates 20 Years
Two decades in business, especially one as fickle as fashion, is no small feat. It’s a cause for celebration as Erdem Moralıoğlu marked his 20th anniversary with an elegant show at the Tate Britain. With a front row that included Glenn Close, Helen Mirren, Keira Knightley, and more, the 48 look show was a retrospective of sorts. Titled “The Imaginary Conversation”, Moralıoğlu brought back significant moments in his career, reimagined for the future. From Maria Callas-inspired gowns to his collaboration with Barbour to deep cuts like a bridal dress from his first collection, it all felt fresh, exciting, and vibrant with a deep devotion to beautiful craftsmanship that the brand is known for. Here’s to another 20! — Diana Tsui
Thevxlley Was a Sleeper Hit
Remember this name: Daniel del Valley. The Spaniard, who holds a day job as florist, turned day three of London fashion week on its head with his thoughtful debut collection, “The Narcissist”, for his label Thevxlley. Held at Ladbroke Hall, which was quite literally the opposite side of town, editors and buyers dutifully made the trek and were rewarded with a beautiful 25 look runway show that was more art installation than anything else. Given his day job, naturally flowers played a huge role, threaded through pumps, worn as masks, or as the bodice of gowns. But where he really shined were the vases turned tops. Whether it was a delicate blue porcelain rendition, another made from shells, or an extremely meta take where there were miniature vases on shelves that made up a larger one, it was certainly a sight to behold. Now that he’s made us take notice, what will he do next? — DT
Tolu Coker’s Royal Surprise
The last time a royal family member attended London fashion week was back in 2018, when Queen Elizabeth II made an unexpected appearance at Richard Quinn. Designer Tolu Coker can now count herself among that rarified group of creatives as King Charles III attended her show. But to anyone paying close attention it wouldn’t have been a surprise — Coker received membership through the Prince’s Trust which helped establish her brand. For fall 2026, called Survivor’s Remorse and dedicated to lost loved ones Remi Coker and Kayode Coker, the designer draws from her experiences living in the Mozart Estate (a West London housing project) and working in luxury womenswear. With a performance by Little Simz, the sharp tailoring and corseted looks melded traditional British savoir-faire with her vibrant irreverence.
A New Opening For a LFW Favorite
JW Anderson may no longer be staging runway shows during LFW but it doesn’t mean the brand isn’t still a presence. On Friday, they opened a new store in London’s Pimlico. Rupert Friend, Kieron Moore, Connor Swindells, Ruaridh Mollica, Finn Bennett, Lesley Manville and other friends of the house joined to celebrate along with industry faces like Anna Wintour and Hamish Bowles. The new store nods to his recently renovated boutique in Soho, where furniture, fine jewelry, curated vintage finds, artworks, and, of course, the new collection of fashion all come together. It’s an eclectic space that whispers the brand’s instinct to art, crafts, and lifestyle of the highest quality living up to Jonathan Anderson’s vision and standards. — Didier Zheng
OSCAR OUYANG: THE LAST PARTY
As one of the BFC’s NewGen talents, Oscar Ouyang is a rising star in London’s fashion landscape. For fall 2026, the designer threw a party-set runway that bids adieu to the old world and embraces the new. Tailoring played a big part in this collection, where military elements are softened and restructured for today’s young souls. Formality is swapped for comfort as seen in relaxed knitwear and oversized hoodies. Still though, it feels elevated courtesy of textiles like virgin wool and llama. You’ll also find repurposed tuxedos and torn jeans that reinforce the idea that yes, you can have tradition but through the chaos, new orders are born. — DZ
Chet Lo’s Hong Kong Night Market
For those who grew up in Hong Kong, dai pai dongs are a familiar sight. Consisting of little stalls with tiny stools, food is served up freshly cooked on site and meant to be shared with friends or family. Chet Lo takes this experience and sprinkles in other night market details to set a vivid scene for his fall 2026 collection. Unabashedly Chinese, his signature spiky knits get reimagined here as sexy takes on cheongsams or as details for suiting. With an all Asian cast, it felt like a fitting way to barrel into the Year of the Fire Horse. — DT
Chopova Lowena is in Their Regency Era
While Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena skipped a formal runway show for Chopova Lowena this season in favor of a presentation, it didn’t dampen the enthusiasm of their loyal fans. Held at the 19th century Craft Council building in Islington, the duo transformed the room into equal parts exhibit and miniature golf course. For the former, they tapped an expert from the Victoria and Albert Museum to style mannequins in the style of a museum display while the latter added a sense of whimsy that felt true to the brand. The collection, called “Too Ripe and Ready by Half”, a reference to an overly forward or mischievous woman, it’s a fitting way to describe the Chopova Lowena woman. From visible knickers to pouf sleeve ultra short minis to dresses that feature ample hips meant to take up space, it was Regency-era glamour with a subversive twist.
Toga Makes Clothes You Want to Wear Off the Runway
As fun as a conceptual runway show may be to dissect, sometimes you want clothes you could easily imagine wearing straight off the catwalk. Toga is that brand. Designed by Yasuko Furuta, fall 2026 begins with the words: Pull. Crumple. Pressed. A reference to ways fabrics behave in the real world, it’s a grounded, pragmatic approach to dressing. That being said, it’s anything but boring with interesting raincoats, skirt-meets-pants, furry adornments at the hips, and layered cardigans turned into corset-style belts. — DT
Self-Portrait Rings in the Year of the Fire Horse
After a packed few days of shows, Self Portrait’s Han Chong threw a Lunar New Year party to welcome in the Year of the Fire Horse. Held at Dumplings’ Legend in London’s Chinatown there were late-night dumplings, cocktails, and karaoke. The night also served as a celebration of Sandiwara, a short film from the brand’s residency program. Directed by Sean Baker and starring Michelle Yeoh, the screening served as a reminder that for Self-Portrait, community and culture are just as important as the clothes. — Amelia Crabtree
Sinead Gorey Heads to the Pub
For fall 2026, Sinead Gorey took us to a British classic: The pub. With plenty of Desperados, some guests perched on bar stools with pints in hand, while models draped themselves over pool tables, donning “I Heart Desperados” graphic tees and fur coats. A love letter to the British night out we all know and love, the brand brought grit and grunge back into the party girl. — AC
