27 January 2023 |
TEN CRAVES IS OUR ONLINE SERIES THAT ROUNDS UP ALL THE BEST PRODUCT LAUNCHES AND MUST-KNOW FASHION HAPPENINGS WEEK IN, WEEK OUT.
BERGHAIN’S BOUNCER IN 44 LABEL GROUP
Max Kobosil’s 44 Label Group just dropped its AW23 collection of post-modern rave wear. Constructed from coarse fabrics – washed greyscale denim, textured rubber, rough canvas – to create high-strength utilitarian uniforms, full body boiler suits, pleated combat skirts, huge hoodies and DJ luggage made in collaboration with UDG. Dubbed Blame Society, it sets a desolate scene, muddied and dark, to depict alternate futures and digital dystopia also coursing through the typographic clothes. Berghain Berlin’s rugged bouncer wears the bold designs, cementing the collection’s status as clothes for the club kids of a doomed future.
SMILEY ORIGINAL’S BIANNUAL FUTURE CREATORS FUND
Supporting sustainability, Smiley Original’s biannual Future Creators Fund has just announced its latest recipients. Including London-based Priya Ahluwalia, Chet-Lo and AGR, Kevin Germanier who shows in Paris, South African Rich Mnisi and China-based Shuting Qiu who shows at Milan fashion week – each receiving a chunk of a £500k fund and access to a mentorship support scheme designed to help them at global fashion weeks. Demonstrating how to create more consciously, each designer collaborated with Smiley Originals on a capsule clothing and accessories collection that’s either 100% sustainable or 100% circular. Either way, they’re utterly innovative.
JOHN ALEXANDER SKELTON’S ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE COLLECTION
John Alexander Skelton unveiled his XIV collection a few weeks ago with a humble exhibition over in East London. Neolithic British art – rock carving in particular – inspired the functional but cosy clothes he presented alongside rural imagery and art by photographer William Waterworth and filmmaker Joel Kerr. In Earthy hues, Skelton proposed hand-felted hats made with British wool, sturdy handcrafted boots, natural jute rope belt loops and beautifully embroidered traditional knits. This was English country-core in its purest form.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’S BOW BAG FOR MEN
Coming in black and dove grey leather, Alexander McQueen’s new Bow bag for men is the side kick set to fly off the shelves. It’s slick, classic and simultaneously rebellious, able to be hand held or carried conveniently with a skinny, cross-body strap.
THE NEW MIU MIU MUSES
The new SS23 Miu Miu campaign is a star-studded fashion girlie‘s heaven. With Ever Anderson, Achol Ayor, Emma Corrin, Kendall Jenner, Esther McGregor, Quintessa Swindell, Karolin Wolter and Lim Yoona each having their own euphoric spread, the profound effect clothes can have on human existence and self-expression is beautifully illustrated. All the Miu Miu muses – in splendid suiting, utilitarian silhouettes and delicate skirts – are united by courage and a desire to challenge beauty or style conventions, and it begs the questions: What is the function of fashion? And where is its place in life?
Photography by Zoë Ghertner.
Top Image: Courtesy of 44 Label.
