8 September 2023 |
J. Lo, Lil Nas X, and Lola Tung were all there to celebrate.
It sounds hard to believe, but a full decade has passed by for Stuart Vevers at Coach. Last night, the brand staged a show and dinner at the New York Public Library to celebrate the milestone anniversary. The energy was electric outside as the late summer heat meant plenty of on-lookers gathered around the entrance to the space, craning their necks in hopes of catching a glimpse of a celebrity or two. Their efforts were well rewarded with the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Lola Tung, and Lil Nas X all in attendance.
Inside the space, there was a sense of calm as everyone took their seats. As “Drawn to the Blood ” by Sufjan Stevens played, the show opened with a sleek leather slip dress before segueing into suiting – an evolution of the ideas Vevers presented last season. Similar looks were shown on male and female models, albeit with slight styling variations. Newer ideas included oversized jackets worn as dresses, paired with jelly flats or sneakers as well as the return of overalls and the curious combination of sweatsuit with engineer boots.
In the show notes Vevers notes that this collection was a reflection of what he thought of as the archetypes of New York fashion – a love letter to a place that he now calls home. But instead of looking at vintage pieces from the nineties, when he first came to the city, he opted to remember it his own way. Looks recalled the way artists like Nan Goldin and Diane Arbus set a mood as well as more direct references like the slip-clad dancers at the Pyramid Club or power dressing execs, who reimagined their suiting after-hours.
Sustainability and circularity have been big talking points for Coach – case in point their launch of Coachtopia and this collection reflected that ethos as well. The filmy slips were made from deadstock lace and fabric from prior collections, dyed with botanical pigments. You’ll also see repurposed denim and leather. The latter proved to be an ironic detail, as PETA crashed the show to protest the use of (presumably) new leather.
Regardless of the gate crashers, the festive spirit didn’t dampen as guests made their way upstairs for cocktails and dinner. Following a salad course, Vevers made a speech, acknowledging his time at the brand. He was emotional at times, choking up when speaking about his husband and daughter (who joined him for the runway bow) as well as his father, who flew out for the event. “When I joined Coach, we didn’t make clothes. Now we have fashion shows and dress people I admire. And it’s only on the night like tonight with a fashion show like this one, that Coach comes to life fully for our client to see before it walks out of these doors, past the lions, and into the real wardrobes of America and the world beyond. Tonight, for me is about celebrating the people I’m looking to work with and the dreams we have made a reality in a way only New York [can].”
Photos courtesy of BFA.
