4 June 2024 |
As the sun began to set on a perfect Scottish evening, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior models, led by a parade of pipers, strode through the formal gardens of Drummond Castle, which are laid out in the shape of the Scottish flag. The highland backdrop, was matched by an equally beautiful collection which made for one of the most visually spectacular and emotionally powerful cruise shows of recent times.
Maria Grazia Chiuri has elevated the travelling Dior cruise shows to a high point in the fashion calendar. More than just a fashion show, her multi-layered approach has turned them into cultural and collaborative experiences, rich with craft and story telling.
For her Scottish show, she brought together Scottish history craft and textiles with Dior’s entwined relationship with Scotland – in 1953 he brought eight models and 147 couture looks to a show in the ballroom at Gleneagles Hotel, and followed up with other Scottish trunk shows in the fifties and sixties. Some pieces from those events were on display before the show and archive images from Dior’s Scottish events were printed onto tops and coats in the collection.
Chiuri, inspired by the textile history of Scotland, enriched her collection with collaborations with traditional Scottish producers (Harris Tweed, Esk Cashmere and Johnstons of Elgin). The traditional ceremonial hat maker Robert Mackie produced some of the head-pieces in the show and Scottish designer Samantha McCoach of Le Kilt, worked with Chiuri on one fresh interpretation of the traditional kilt.
There was a rugged beauty to it all. Tartan shawls were fastened with studded belt-bags and worn over tartan bar jackets, blanket skirts and heavy biker boots. Panniered corsets were layered over matching shorts and the tartan pattern was picked out in semi sheer knit dresses.
The designer studied historic embroideries done by Mary Queen of Scotts in captivity and filled with hidden political meanings and messages. That translated into the weaponised words used to disparage women (bossy, feisty, nag) defiantly embroidered onto a leather ‘doublet’ dresses. The show ended with a crescendo of fierce and fragile lace gowns followed by a final wow – pipers playing the models out as the designer took her bow. Bravo!
Photography courtesy of Dior.
