17 June 2024 |
And so it begins! The menswear SS25 show season has officially kicked off with the 106th edition of Pitti Uomo. With over 790 brands taking part in this iteration of the storied men’s trade fair, press, buyers and a sea of suited and booted gents headed to Florence for a sunkissed three days of serious fash. Here are our 10 takeaways.
The Perfect Cashmere Jumper: Johnstons Of Elgin
Following their mega team up with Dior on the house’s Scottish cruise show, cashmere specialist Johnstons of Elgin presented its spring/summer collection at the fair. While a cashmere jumper is the perfect companion for cold winter months, it’s also great for summer too, with the brand showcasing a series of lightweight cardigans, cropped T-shirts and jumpers all in gentle palette inspired by the northern lights.
The Ode To Cinema: Marine Serre
As this season’s guest designer at Pitti Uomo, Marine Serre staged her co-ed show atop of a idyllic hillside that overlooked the city. It was the designer’s first time showing outside of Paris, where the former LVMH Prize winner looked to classic Italian cinema to inform her sartorial collection. Read the full review here.
The Intimate Showcase: Paul Smith
Skipping out on the catwalk this season, Paul Smith invited guests to the gilded Villa Fivard to talk though his latest outing. He was inspired by the Italian cafes that populated London’s soho through the 1940s, as well as the artists that populated them – from Francis Bacon to Lucian Freud – transforming the beautiful venue into ‘Bar Paul’. The collection was populated with handsome wool suits, loosely-cut shirting, and striped denim in collaboration with Lee.
The Italian Classics: Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli opened Pitti Uomo on Tuesday June 11 with a scenic welcome dinner through the vast gardens of Serre Torrigiani. It was a celebration of the brand’s latest men’s collection, staged at the fair the following days. This season the brand introduced more pastel hues into the collection, from pretty peaches to cherry blossom pinks, with a series of western-inspired belts and crisp grey suiting proving to be highlights.
The Modern Wardrobe: Herno
Italian outerwear specialists Herno continued to broaden its scope across a series of wardrobe archetypes. Streamlined trenchcoats sat alongside guilted gilets, nylon shirting and seersucker twinsets in a collection that was designed to be worn across seasons.
The Celebration: Margaret Howell
Margaret Howell toasted to 10 years since the brand first arrived in Florence with a intimate gathering at its flagship. The brand wanted to celebrate its connection with Italy (much of its manufacturing is done in the country), turning the store into a mini art gallery populated with blown up posters of Margaret Howell signatures.
The Future Development: Guess Jeans
Guess’s new core denim brand Guess Jeans, which launched at Pitti Uomo back in January, introduced the fair to its innovative AirwashTM technology which is set to revolutionise denim production. In a miniature exhibition, the brand showed off the capabilities AirwashTM in an interactive lab. The pioneering AirwashTM tech – powered by Jeanologia – replaces pumice stones used in stonewashing with light and air, massively reducing water consumption when creating denim without losing the desired effects when it comes to washes and finishes.
The Aperativo: Gucci
On Thursday evening, Gucci hosted a cocktail party at its beautiful Gucci Gardens location. Guests sipped on bubbles and ate delicious canepas in what made a fitting end to this Pitti Uomo.
The New Guard: S|Style
A highlight from the fair was the S/Style presentation. The initiative, backed by Kering’s Material Innovation Lab (MIL), spotlighted 10 designers harnessing innovative materials while also receiving fabrics from houses under the Kering umbrella. Including British designers Denzil Patrick and Irish talent Caoimhe Dowling, the designers showcased have produced collections using everything from recycled denim through to fabric coatings made from marble dust.
The Surprise Delight: Nick Hart
Nick Hart has a lengthy career in fashion, with a beefy CV that includes stints at Dior, Kenzo and Diesel. Having used to design under the tailoring brand Spencer Hart, the Savile Row-trained designer has launched his own namesake label. The brand looks to inner city London to inform its androgynous, monochromatic tailoring, which includes roomy ink-black overcoats and cropped white trousers.
