25 September 2024 |
Maximilian Davis’s SS25 collection for Ferragamo brought a fresh, contemporary twist to the brand’s balletic heritage, which kicked off in the 1930s when it unveiled its first ballerina shoes. Drawing from those archives, and with nods to the house’s past collaborations – stemming from a photograph he found of Salvatore Ferragamo fitting shoes onto the feet of Afro-American dancer, choreographer and anthropologist, Katherine Dunham and a pair of custom-made slippers designed for Russian dancer Rudolf Nureyev in the ‘80s – the designer created a collection that absolutely en pointe.
That meant second-skin cashmere cotton, twisted and tied around the body like practice uniforms were juxtaposed by flowing opera coats and tutu-esque parachute dresses that moved with ease. Balancing that elegance with a high-octane spirit, raw, frayed denim and jelly moccasins channelled a subtle Caribbean energy, grounding the more ethereal pieces while raised hemlines cut through the romance with a sex-ified edge. There were belted low-waists, leggings and chopped-up shirting Frakensteined back together too, topped up with ‘80s-inspired, body-engulfing tailoring, technical tracksuits and sequin embroidery treated with modern resin techniques.
Accessories were understated but impactful. Leather handbags gently collapsed and folded, pierced with metal Gancini details. Footwear ranged from pointed, lace-up pumps to geometric booties – perfect for pirouetting or partying – blending Davis’s dance-inflected references with modern minimalism. The craftsmanship that defines Ferragamo was ever-present, with intricately interlaced leather and sustainable stonewashed denim.
Through this fusion of past and present, Davis honoured the house’s heritage without any of the stuffiness history can sometimes hold; he made it new and relevant for today. And in true Davis style, it all felt effortlessly cool. Classic Ferragamo, but with a balletic spin.
Photography courtesy of Ferragamo.
