10 October 2024 |
The runway returned to its glory at the Grand Palais.
For the last three years, Chanel has funded a sweeping renovation of the Grand Palais, making it necessary to move their show elsewhere. Just in time for the Olympics, the space reopened to become the home to the fencing competition. And yesterday, it hosted its first runway show with a front row filled with bold-faced names including Blackpink’s Jennie and newly named ambassador Lupita Nyong’o. On this day, the newly refurbished historic site, which bears the name Gabrielle Chanel over the doors, was filled with light — a rare sunny day considering there had been non-stop clouds and rain in Paris. The sweeping glass ceiling gave the appearance of bringing the outdoors indoors, especially as the set consisted of park chairs and benches, centered around a giant white birdcage in the middle.
The centerpiece represented both the past and present of Chanel. Following the departure of Virginie Viard back in June, a successor has not been named and so the studio designed the current collection. Per the show notes, the choice of a birdcage-like space reflects a show that’s about flying up in the air. It also has historic connotations as not only did Gabrielle Chanel own a cage with birds that was given by one of her seamstresses but it also nodded to a famous 1991 ad campaign. In the video, Vanessa Paradis perches on a rung while whistling to Stormy Weather as a bottle of Coco perfume is spilled. For the 2024 iteration a black-clad Riley Keough assumed the role, entering the white aviary and soaring above during the finale, while performing Prince’s When Doves Cry. To complete the circle, each seat also featured a bottle of the perfume as a parting gift.
As for the clothes, the parade of looks offered something for every Chanel fan. There were chiffon capes, slit skirts, feathery creations, and even some embellished denim. Naturally, plenty of tweed also factored into the pieces, whether you prefer the classic black-and-white iterations or more colorful options. For the studio, they described the collection as an ode to women who sought to be free from society’s expectations. This translated into pieces that referenced Colette, the music-hall artist and literary figure, courtesy of the boyish tailoring while there was also a nod to the aviatrixes of the era in the form of jackets with Peter Pan collars and flight suits. To round out the looks, there was naturally the inclusion of suiting and the little black dress as well, in honor of Chanel’s everlasting impact on women’s fashion. Now the question begs, who will be the one to impact the future of the brand’s legacy?
