15 February 2024 |
It’s been nearly two years since Russia launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine, so for its AW24 collection, Bevza – the minimalistic brand that hails from Kyiv – set out to celebrate its motherland’s vibrant culture and history. As such, creative director Svitlana Bevza deliberately selected the Ukrainian Institute of America – which specialises in promoting the art, music and culture of Ukraine – for her penultimate New York Fashion Week presentation.
Toeing the line of its “less but luxe” mantra, the collection was centred around Ukraine’s role as one of the world’s largest grain producers. Apron dresses were crafted from eco-leather and coats were made from sheepskin, inspired by 19th-century Ukrainian silhouettes. The Tisto vest – named after the Ukrainian word for dough – sported plaits that echoed the texture of traditional Kosa bread.
As for the palette? It was muted, but far from boring, with the occasional pop of canary and gold coming through to mirror the lush colours of a healthy harvest. These monochromatic looks were elevated by shapes that were experimental yet considered, edited with geometric collars and belt-scrunched waists. Accessories were seen as an opportunity for some of Bevza’s more obvious references to flourish, with bags and clasps seemingly taking their shape from the wheat plant itself.
Photography courtesy of Bevza.
