29 February 2024 |
British gem Bianca Saunders decided to take a step back from the madness of fashion week this season. She usually shows during men’s, but she opted to unveil her latest collection, which also marks her first foray into unisex garments, via a simple but considered lookbook. Calling it Nothing Personal, Saunders was inspired by the close friendship between American photographer Richard Avedon and civil rights activist James Baldwin who released a book together in 1964 with the same title. Nothing Personal (the book) explored American identity – Nothing Personal (the collection) explored the tension between internal and external perceptions.
Saunders’s AW24 silhouettes were disrupted but minimalist, with ear-brushing collars and bulbous sleeves encouraging viewers to appreciate the complexities of her fluent design language. Materials were unconventional, with pops of gold silk and water-repellent rain macks. Vinyl jackets and trousers came constructed in a deep, scarlet red, whilst traditional Grove trousers were reimagined with pin-hems and extended belt loops. Immersing herself in the study of movement, Saunders paired pleats and cinches with smooth fabrics to evoke a sense of fluidity through her manipulation of the fabrics. Reuniting with American artist Troy Montes-Michie for a graphic tee inspired by mirrors, the offering had an understated but exciting sort of creativity to it, keeping in touch with the type of clothes Saunders has become beloved for.
Collaborating with deadstock retailer Nona Source, the collection utilised existing fibres sourced from luxury houses owned by LVMH, reinforcing Saunders’s commitment to circular production. It was a masterclass in subdued luxury with a sustainable twist.
Photography courtesy of Bianca Saunders.
