29 February 2024 |
Copenhagen-darling Cecilie Bahnsen just offered up her vision for the incoming AW24 season – a dainty and delicate array of swollen skirts and divine dresses, this time with a darker twist. Entitled The Bite, the offering explored the duskier sides of her romantic aesthetic, with the founder and creative director making sure to evolve her grounded codes with purpose and precision.
Centring the ‘apple’ as a source of inspiration, each piece was intended to embody themes of desire, love, strength, beauty and everydayness often associated with the fruit. Based on the suggestion of collaborator and photographer Casper Sejersen, the decision was made in the pursuit of appreciating the simpler things in life and admiring the beauty in the mundane.
Silhouettes were identifiable but edited, with models sporting shorter hemlines and wider billows than previous collections. Materials clashed, but in a way that was calm and considered, dancing between high-gloss leather, organza, nylon and matte knits. A grungier air that felt unique but relevant for Bahnsen was evoked through cropped, leather pieces, while that typical, whimsical flair was still present in bloated floral embroideries inspired by the works of German-American artist Kiki Smith.
Bahnsen continued its inclination for collaborating with its well-known – and well-loved – flower-adorned. strap-on Asics accessorising a spattering of the looks. Heritage brand Mackintosh was the brain behind the outerwear. As models walked down the runway to a remake of Robyn’s song ‘Don’t Fucking Tell Me What To Do’, the show was a defiant display of Bahnsen refusing to be put in a box. We loved it.
Photography courtesy of Cecilie Bahnsen.
