Celebrating Sabyasachi: India’s Crown Prince of Fashion and Fantasy

His 25th anniversary collection held nothing back.

If Chanel, Saint Laurent, and Ralph Lauren had a love child, it would undoubtedly be Sabyasachi. India’s couture king spent the past 25 years redefining heritage fashion with an artistry that blends tradition with an unapologetic sense of grandeur. And this past weekend in Mumbai, the maestro celebrated his silver jubilee in true Sabyasachi style with plenty of opulence, drama, and a touch of nostalgia.

Sabyasachi’s journey is the stuff of fashion folklore. Armed with a modest 20,000 rupees (around $230 USD today) borrowed from family savings and an unshakable dream, he began his career in Calcutta with three employees. Today, his empire boasts a formidable 3,000 artisans, all dedicated to preserving India’s exquisite craftsmanship — a national soft power that Sabyasachi has elevated to global heights.

Every icon has a defining moment, and for Sabyasachi, it was heartbreak that led to his breakthrough collection. Titled Frog Princess, the looks tackled the societal pressures women face during their search for love when it comes to their appearance. It caught the discerning eye of fashion icon and dream maker, Joan Burstein of Browns Fashion in London. Fashion legend goes: if Mrs Burstein puts your collection at the window of Browns during London Fashion Week, you’ll become a huge success. After all, that magic worked on John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and others. So off to London Fashion Week Sabyasachi went.

The trip was indeed life changing, in more ways than one. “If there was such a thing called junior economy, right next to the toilet, that’s what I flew! I wore my best Nikes with denim and I was thinking I was a cat whiskers,” he recalls. When Sabyasachi finally reached Browns, he realized with a shock that the window featured his work. “For a person who never really traveled abroad and grew up middle class, I needed one sign from the universe to say you’re in the right place” From that moment on Sabyasachi knew he was meant to create an international empire and so he returned home, throwing himself into his work.

But success isn’t always linear. In 2006, his Snail collection—a precursor to the slow fashion movement—failed to resonate with American audiences. A gentle whisper from fashion legend Suzy Menkes steered him back home: “Conquer India first.” And so he did, launching his first bridal collection, which catapulted him to superstardom.

Calcutta, with its grand decay and effortless charm, remains one of Sabyasachi’s ultimate muse. The city’s intoxicating mix of opulence and grit—from the bustling flower markets of Mallick Ghat to the hypnotic gaze of Goddess Kali—infuses every thread of his designs. He also credits his two grandmothers as his greatest influences with one being a minimalist and the other, a maximalist. This duality is ever-present in his collections, which mix intricate embroidery with austere silhouettes, and traditional Indian fabrics with unexpected textures like faux fur and recycled polyester.

That sense of grandeur mixed with moments of restraint wasn’t quite the case for his 25th anniversary celebration. Sabyasachi held nothing back to fete this momentous occasion. Held this past weekend at Mumbai’s convention center, the space was transformed into a maximalist fantasy. Chandeliers dripping from the ceiling, vintage crockery, towering floral arrangements, and faux wildlife set the scene for an unforgettable evening. The culinary offerings? A decadent spread of pastries, charcuterie, caviar, and champagne that flowed endlessly. To top it off, an equally as lively playlist — where else would you hear Phillip Glass and Vanilla Ice’s legendary Ice Ice Baby in such elegant surroundings?

As for the runway show itself, it was nothing short of spectacular. Deepika Padukone opened the show in an all-white power suit, adorned with layers of necklaces and a statement headband, channeling both Frida Kahlo and Madonna. What followed was a parade of 156 exquisite looks—embroidered coats, brocade separates, and even sequined T-shirts proclaiming “Dog Dad.” And just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, supermodel Christy Turlington closed the show in a black turtleneck and cream pants, dripping in signature Sabyasachi jewels.

So, what’s next for the man who’s done it all? Sabyasachi has his sights set firmly on the future. With India poised to become the world’s largest luxury market by 2040, he’s determined to ensure the country claims its rightful place at the top. “Luxury started here, it belongs here, and it should come back here,” he asserts. His mission going forward is to help India break free from colonial mindsets and embrace its unparalleled potential.

Something tells us he’s just getting started.