Titled Symphonie Fantastique, the psychedelic symphony soundtracks the collection.
Spend any time in Los Angeles and eventually you’ll find yourself on a desolate desert road whether you head down to Palm Springs or up towards San Francisco. The seemingly endless miles of dust and rock may not seem to be the likeliest of locales to stage a fashion show but for Image Director Hedi Slimane, it’s precisely where the Celine fall winter 2024 menswear collection begins. Titled Symphonie Fantastique, the 14-minute long short film serves as a haunting ode to what Slimane does best — exquisite, timeless tailoring.
Symphonie Fantastique is derived from the classical piece bearing the same name, composed by Hector Berlioz in 1830. Described as the first psychedelic symphony by Leonard Bernstein in 1969, it pre-dates the actual psychedelic movement yet still retains a haunting, surreal quality one associates while being under the influence. While technically an ode to unrequited love, as Berlioz was smitten with English actress Harriet Smithson when he was 26 years old, critics found it strange and modern. It’s this juxtaposition that captured Slimane’s attention at an early age — after discovering it at 11, it ignited his passion for the romantic musical piece.
So of course a psychedelic symphony would be the only appropriate soundtrack for a foray into the desert, a place that lends itself to surrealistic experimentation and self-actualization. The film kicks off with a series of helicopters flying over a road as a Celine-branded jukebox is dropped into the middle. The strains of the classic piece fill the screen as vintage Cadillacs drive down the road. In the backseat sits a model, clad in a sharp suit complete with hat and sunglasses, before segueing to another model who transforms the road into the runway, setting the tone for the collection.
For Slimane fall winter 2024 represents a return to what he does best, sharp tailoring. Equally inspired in parts by mid-century modern era suiting, what Bernstein would have presumably worn, the looks also find commonality with 19th century Anglomania — a nod to what Berlioz conceivably wore in his daily life. Despite the historical references, Slimane’s work felt modern as a selection of suiting skipped the button down in favor of mock-neck knits. As always leather plays a huge role, whether head-to-toe or worn over wool trousers. Also seen in the collection is the judicious use of sparkly details, whether in dramatic outerwear or head-to-toe sequined looks as well as furry coats and patent finishes.
Unlike runway presentations, this video format allows Slimane to incorporate a slew of references and take viewers on a journey. Given the haunting music and surreal quality of landscape, the sunglasses and hat-wearing suited models also bring to mind the G-Men of days past, investigating supernatural occurrences in the area. Also, it’d be remiss not to highlight cowboy culture while in the California desert and so Brayden Liberio makes an appearance. Riding on his horse Frijoles, it’s a nod to Slimane’s California Teen Cowboy photo and video series, which started back in 2013. And towards the latter half of the film, flashes of Los Angeles begin to appear from the downtown skyline to freeways to glimpses of the Troubadour Club, a music venue that’s played host to everyone from Elton John to Joni Mitchell to the Strokes. But perhaps the most striking image comes at the very end. As the sun sets and the skies grow dark, the jukebox sparks before erupting in flames. Given the speculation on Slimane’s time at Celine coming to an end, could this metaphorical setting it all on fire be his way of saying goodbye? Watch and decide for yourself.
