14 February 2023 |
Y2k in a dark, moody, and genderless way.
When you think of Y2K style, the image that comes to mind is likely Paris Hilton in low slung jeans, pastel Juicy Couture hoodie, and rhinestone encrusted Von Dutch trucker hat. While that aesthetic might be back in style, that’s not all the early aughts has to offer. For fall 2023, Coach’s Stuart Vevers embraced a different side to the decade, opting for a moody and teen angst-filled collection that was made for the Gen Z-er who wants to feel all the feelings while sulking in their room.
Set to the music of Placebo and The Verve, the 38 look collection featured plenty of leather and head-to-toe denim paired with combat boots and leather high tops. Opening with a long striped sweater dress that featured a pixelated version of the iconic NY Apple logo, Coach makes it known that they’re a proud New York label. The show then segued into their version of genderless dressing, with every model accessorized with a massive dangly rhinestone earring. Looks repeated but that was the point — the opening distressed knit look was mirrored with a male model in a similar dress with a Superman logo, evoking a 2023 version of Kurt Cobain while an identical low slung short shorts and boxy jacket ensemble were worn by men and women alike.
Evening dresses aren’t exactly the first thing that comes to mind when you think about the brand but Vevers does sprinkle a few looks in the show. A series of sheer colorful chiffon midis worn with black underwear are the perfect option for a modern day Courtney Love while the show closed with a decidedly grown up long sleeve black sequin turtleneck gown. It’ll be interesting to see which red carpet star will show up in one of these options.
At its core, Coach is still best known for their handbags and every look was accessorized with multiple styles. The little logo emblazoned pochettes are certain to be popular, in colors like hot pink, acid yellow, and patent black, while the monogram backpacks are another nod to early aughts trends. There were also kitschy shapes — stars, lips, hearts, apples, and even a dog. And should you think that only tiny bags were popular, gigantic totes are making a comeback as well.
Every brand wants to appeal to the Gen Z customer but few legacy brands have been able to pivot successfully. Coach has managed to do so and the front row was proof of that — you had TikTok stars like Wisdom Kaye side by side with Ice Spice, the It girl rapper of the moment. Also present were SNL’s Sarah Sherman, The Summer I Turned Pretty star Lola Tung, and of course, the face of the brand, Lil Nas X. If the styling and nostalgic nod to the early aughts through a distinctively Gen Z lens weren’t enough proof that they want to be the cool label for the next generation, the choice of celebs proved that the youth are the future of the brand.
