Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection came with a with a short but impactful message: “To Hell With War”. This is a designer well-versed in statement-making fashion, but this was Kawakubo at her most tender. It was a show steeped in emotion, addressing the heartbreak of young men having to fight in devastating conflict across the world and the brave souls forced to soldier on in the face of adversity.
The cast was notably youthful; their innocence accentuated with their plaited synthetic wigs and two-sizes-too-big helmets that sprouted with flowers or were wrapped in satin. Throughout, suits in military green were deconstructed and peeled apart, collided with moments of tartan, pinstripe, hippy florals and felt in primary hues. Camo trousers were repositioned as billowing skirts littered with pockets, while zipped shorts and army boots upturned at the toe nodded to the brand’s punk roots. All set to a Nina Simone soundtrack, it made for one of the brand’s most powerful outings.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
