Emporio Armani’s AW26 collection reinforced the brand’s long-standing dialogue between masculine and feminine, this time with a renewed focus on youth and everyday dressing. It also marked Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco’s first collection created together for Emporio Armani since the passing of Giorgio Armani last year – a moment that gave the outing added weight, even as the clothes themselves remained characteristically light.
Called Maestro and presented against the backdrop of a fictional music school, the collection explored discipline and individuality in equal measure. British formal references – tailcoats, waistcoats and crested details – were softened through Emporio’s relaxed Italian sensibility. Silhouettes were vertical but fluid, with neat shoulders and an ease that prevented tailoring from feeling rigid.
House staples anchored the offering: trench coats, enveloping overcoats, softly structured suits and long cardigans layered over generous shirts and cropped trousers. Pleated Bermuda shorts and elevated denim introduced a younger energy, while tactile fabrics – tweed, chenille, wool-linen blends and worn-effect leather – added depth. Rendered in a palette of beige, greige and brown, punctuated by flashes of Armani blue and red, the collection balanced continuity with quiet progression.
Photography courtesy of Emporio Armani.