22 February 2024 |
Sleek, supple and superlative: the Fendi approach to life has plenty of appeal. In the hands of Kim Jones, it’s also got an easy modernity. For AW24 he focused on lean shapes and luscious textures. Tailoring was carved from double face cashmere with curving redingote coats and jackets pared back to show the beauty of the silhouette. There were layered-up body-con knits, tailored shell tops and matching mini skirts, all worn with thigh-high riding boots, roomy coats and soft, pliable, tactile bags.
It was Utilitarian but luxe – ‘done’, but not to clinical perfection – the models wore body suits unfastened and untucked as if they’d dressed in a hurry or simply didn’t care for convention. It was a Fendi flex.
Jones said he was looking at Karl Lagerfeld sketches from 1984 in the Fendi archives and saw the influence of London – it’s wildly creative New Romantic scene, extravagantly dressed Blitz kids like Princess Julia and Judy Blame (who have a permanent place on Jones’s pinboard) as well as the performance artist Leigh Bowery, who loved polkadots (hence the dot-embroidered sheer skirts).
“It was a point when British subcultures and styles became global and absorbed global influences. Yet still with a British elegance in ease and not giving a damn what anybody else thinks, something that chimes with Roman style,” noted the designer.
Rome is always an his mind at Fendi, with the Jones putting prints of Roman statues on knits and organza skirts and dresses. He also expressed a certain Roman attitude – a natural nonchalance and practical elegance embodied by his forever muse, Delfina Delettrez Fendi who designs jewellery at the brand.
Serious chic (shearlings in inky indigo and burgundy patent, sleek leather tunics and those redingote coats) mixed with more playful elements. How else to explain the leather Lollipop bags designed to hold a single Chupa Chups lolly.
“When you put it all together, it’s about the idea of function in life,” said Jones. Fendi’s dreamy reality.
Photography courtesy of Fendi.
