Inspired by the hidden atriums of Milan, found in noble palazzos, or eclipsed by green gardens, Giorgio Armani’s AW23 offering arrived amicably. Against the geometric marble backdrop of his Via Borgonuovo palazzo, a grand space designed with discrete mathematical configurations, the looks were sharp and architecturally up to snuff, referring to “an age of elegance that, while partially forgotten, echoes in the elegant spirit of this city [Milan].” You could see it in the narrow panelling that permeated leather handbags, and in the mixed-material sweatshirts that came spliced and resewn again. Elsewhere, geometric gridding and zigzags were worked into sleek jacquard knits, mirroring the many marble-inlaid communal spaces that are spread across the city. Not to mention the richly textured grey wools, velvets and cashmeres that played protagonist in the overall palette and were based on the finely carved stone doorways of the show space itself.
As Giorgio Armani’s men strode to the sophisticated sounds of Italian pianist and composer Ludovico Einaudi, a slew of beautiful three-piece suits and elegant outerwear options were unveiled, before silk shirts that were crinkled with raised rivulets of irregular lines began to dance with liquid movement. There were full length faux-fur animal print coats too, coming alongside wraparound sunglasses, as well as a designated section of full-on après ski gear underscored by dynamic crimson and red wine hues.
For getting down to business, keeping it casual, attending black-tie outings or hitting the slopes, the presentation closed out with a lovers promenade. In devil-may-care black velvet suiting and high-octane evening wear that dripped with crystal accents, five fabulously flawless male-and-female pairs convened at the end of the runway as if meeting by chance on the way up to a party, before gliding across the walkway, two-by-beautiful-two. Then came Mr. Armani: Milan’s 88-year-old master fashion architect was slow and self-assured as he stepped out to take his second triumphant bow of the AW23 Milanese menswear season. Oh what a marvel.
Photography courtesy of Giorgio Armani.
