24 February 2024 |
The true test of a designer isn’t the much anticipated debut but the follow up to said debut. What does the future hold? Can you keep up the momentum? Take the critiques lobbed at you and improve? For Sabato De Sarno at Gucci, the fall 2024 collection was a chance to expand upon the looks he presented last spring. What started off as initial ideas have become his signatures — namely Ancora Red, chunky loafers, metallic fringe, and chain detailing mixed in with classic tailoring and plenty of sexy dresses.
Like last season, the front row reinforced Gucci’s standing as a celebrity favorite. Standbys like Julia Garner and Salma Hayek made appearances while the likes of Solange Knowles and Kirsten Dunst also attended, highlighting the wide swath of stars that fall under the brand’s umbrella. Also present was Mark Ronson, who again curated the runway soundtrack. It was equally as catchy and featured a reworked version of Did Virgo and Morgan K’s Coronacid as well as Kelsey Lu’s I’m Not in Love.
Lu might be singing about how she’s not in love but there’s plenty to love on the runway. Per the show notes De Sarno wanted to create fashion that’s grounded in reality. “I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather of ways to live in this world,” he says. Reality, to him, means perfect coats in shades of navy, camel, olive, and chartreuse. Outerwear was a huge focus this season whether worn boxy and short or long and strong-shouldered. To keep the looks from appearing too heavy, the assorted bombers, peacoats, and leather jackets were always paired with plenty of skin in the form of diaphanous see-through dresses or simple bare legs.
As always accessories also played a big role. The chunky flatform loafers from spring evolved into sky high platforms. For those who want something more grounded, De Sarno also added flat equestrian boots as a nod to the brand’s history. Handbag wise, last season he introduced the Jackie Notte and the latest additions include the GG Milano, a top handle bag with a flat and perforated logo as well as a Bamboo bucket bag in addition to a clutch. And finally for jewelry lovers comes an archival necklace that’s woven with a ribbon that matches the shade of the garment it was paired with — a neat styling trick that was especially effective with the coats.
Gucci has had a great red carpet run, dressing the likes of Taylor Swift and Jessica Chastain. Celebrity stylists will have plenty to choose from yet again as De Sarno has embraced glittery fringe, slinky sequin dresses, and lacy slips that mix in rhinestones and velvet. It’ll be interesting to see what styles, if any, will be making an appearance as awards season winds down.
Photography courtesy of Gucci.
