Gucci’s New Era is Full of Sexy Minimalism

Sabato de Sarno’s eagerly anticipated debut was full of pieces to love.

The weather in Milan has been fickle to say the least. First it was hot and sunny and then the clouds and rain rolled in. As the forecast for Friday morning looked successively more ominous, Sabato De Sarno’s awaited Gucci debut had to shift gears. Titled Ancora, Italian for again, the presentation was originally envisioned as a stroll set in the streets of Brera. Due to the risk of torrential rain, the brand swiftly turned it into a moody show at the Gucci Hub. Regardless of location, there was a sense of anticipation in the air. What would the new era under De Sarno look like?

As a lead up to the show, teaser images featuring Daria Werbowy clad only in chunky gold jewelry served as a hint of what was to come. On the day of, the model sat in the front row clad in a slink black lace slip and high boots. Joining her were other longtime supporters of the brand Jessica Chastain and Jodie Turner Smith. Also in the front row, causing a stir, were Kendall Jenner and Bad Bunny as well as Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, and Paul Mescal. To say that Gucci had a stacked celebrity list would be an understatement.

Star spotting is always an enjoyable distraction but you could tell everyone was even more excited to see the clothes. The dimly lit space, bathed in a dark red glow, set the scene and it was even more reinforced once the music by Mark Ronson started. The moody hue, a new signature shade for the brand, signaled that a new sexy era awaits. 

Per the press release, the collection was meant to be a story of the joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of provocation. The first look, a long coat worn over short shorts paired with platform loafers set the tone — De Sarno is embracing a sleeker woman, without the excess of the past. Nonetheless, she’s not afraid to bare skin as seen in the slinky lace slips, embellished bras, and little skirts. Leather, a signature, was particularly covetable especially with the boxy jackets while the denim bits offered casual options. The fringe accented skirt and coat as well as the embellished mini dresses and bedazzled Jackie bags offered a glitzier option for the customer who craves an eye-catching moment.

Segueing from the past can be tricky but given the enthusiasm for the debut, it’s safe to say this served as a palate cleanser for what’s to come. It’ll be exciting to see what awaits De Sarno as the seasons progress — after all what is Ancora but again, again, again.

Images courtesy of Gucci.