5 October 2025 |
Nadège Vanhee took a sexier turn for spring.
Walking into the Hermès show and you might have mistaken the setting for a beach, courtesy of the piles of sand on the floor. Bathed in golden light, the room felt like a seaside escape, plopped into the middle of Paris. That was precisely the point, as spring 2026 imagined a woman with salt air tousled hair and sun-kissed skin, tossing together a scarf, corset, and perhaps some shorts for the perfect warm weather outfit. It was a sexier turn for creative director Nadège Vanhee — fresh and youthful without straying too far from the brand’s codes. And it was well-received too, with an approving front row that included Julia Louis-Dreyfuss, Michelle Dockery, and Ina Garten.
Titled “Free Rein”, the show notes envisioned a horsewoman set loose — she’s emancipated and empowered. Vanhee said she was inspired by Camargue, a region in the south of France known for their brine lagoons and marshland and home to Camargue horses, who roam through the land. A saddle from the region is in the Hermès archives, making it the perfect starting point to build out the collection, with its elements like the troussequin backrest or the straps and buckles broken down and reimagined for modern day dressing. It’s evident from the opening look as the designer transforms leather straps into a harness that swoops across the bust, accentuating the chest. Worn over low slung leather shorts and topped off with a sweeping trench, it’s easy to imagine this mythical woman casually dismounting off her wild mount, much to the awe of those around her.
Those leather harnesses served as a unifying theme in the collection, reappearing with the brand’s signature scarves tucked into them, worn simply over bandeau bras, or layered over padded equestrian jackets. In the show notes Vanhee offered up the idea of layering not to conceal but instead reveal and it was a successful conceit, with plenty of looks oozing sex appeal in both conventional and unconventional ways. If the idea of a skimpy harness was a little too daring, why not cinch an unbuttoned blouse with a belt to show off a strip of skin from neck to navel? Or perhaps little shorts worn under a louche tailored leather trench?
Accessories, as always, serve to accentuate. For those tracking the handbags appearing on the runway, there were So Kellys worn casually tossed over the shoulder while a Kelly Danse in vibrant purple was cinched across the waist. Birkin lovers will find themselves drawn to the suede iteration while the Birkin à l’envers made a return, tucked under the arm of a model. A new hobo similar to the Arçon but smaller made its debut in a slew of hues from rich brown to an olive khaki shade while another hobo complete with horsebit detailing was spotted worn with several looks. Should you be seeking a tiny tote, the En Piste clutch is now available im black, khaki, and bright red. And finally, to tie it all back comes the Balusoie, a bright silk style that nods to Hermès’ vibrant scarves.
Sexy and horsegirl aren’t two words you’d commonly associate together but in Vanhee’s Hermès world she’s a reality. May we all be sexy horsegirls next spring.
