10 September 2024 |
Catherine Holstein has her finger on the pulse of what style-conscious women want to wear, now. Coming off the back of last year’s CFDA award win (Holstein was named the 2023, American Womenswear Designer of the Year) she’s been pinpointed as one of the primary design voices guiding American luxury into its next era. This is because of the polished but edgy feel she brings to her Khaite collections. This time around though, she tapped into her softer side.
The SS25 collection was much brighter and a whole lot lighter than last season’s dark, devolution inspired offering. This season was still populated by high voltage leather looks – baggy jackets or sleek dresses – razor sharp tailoring and fishnet knits, but it wasn’t all so ‘rebel without a cause’. Elsewhere, cloud-like clusters of chiffon metamorphosed into three-dimensional shift dresses and billowing, bulbous shapes that swathed the body like water. There was a lot of chiffon actually – chiffon trousers, chiffon blouses and chiffon tees in shades of lavender, rose, porcelain and beige. Proportions swelled and shrunk from look to look, like a heartbeat with a life of its own.
This was Khaite, but with the edge stripped away. Light as a feather, and totally glorious.
Photography by Hanna Tveite.
