30 September 2023 |
He’s done crazy (remember that car dress?) but now Jonathan Anderson is transitioning Loewe away from viral fashion madness towards something more wearable. The models stalked past monumental bronze sculptures by American artist Lynda Benglis wearing a collection that sought a balance between eccentricity and dressing for real-life. We saw plenty of menswear-inspired wardrobe classics (white shirts, wool blazers, city coats, jeans, loafers), but don’t worry, none of it looked conventional. Trousers and jeans came ultra high waisted, pockets sat high on the ribs, elongating the silhouette and making the models look like they’d been painted by Lowry. Cocoon-like ponchos looked like they’d been knitted on giant needles. Those same golden needles were pierced through the folded waistbands of skirts and trousers. As for the accessories, crystal ballerina pumps, round-toed leather mules and boiled wool loafers were matched with slouchy sacks and practical bucket bags. The manipulated proportions will be enough to ward-off the ‘normals’ and mark this out as for those in-the-fashion-know.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
