21 September 2026 |
SEÁN MCGIRR’S LONDON HOMECOMING IS A CELEBRATION OF THE CITY’S UNIQUE STYLE.
For McQueen, a brand that was born in London, a return home is a rite of passage. Sarah Burton did it twice, showing in 2016 and 2022. Now it’s Seán McGirr’s turn after three years at the helm as creative director. For spring 2027 McGirr made a homecoming and it was indeed one that felt very much in the spirit of the late Lee McQueen. Held at the Undercroft at Lincoln’s Inn, a rib-vaulted 17-century underground space where the gravestones of spymasters, lawyers, and preachers were underfoot, it was equal parts atmospheric and historic — a fitting metaphor for what guests were about to witness. Inspired by what the designer calls a celebration of the city’s “ceaselessly stimulating and transcendent power”, the 46 look show encompassed tailoring, dramatic gowns, and even a smattering of menswear.
As guests sat on simple benches, beams of light pierced through the vaulted ceilings and the room suddenly went dark before pulsating music and strobes began to flash. From there, the first look: a slinky gray suit accented with hair shaped into giant arcing swoops that cast menacing shadows against the stone walls. Until now, McGirr hasn’t been one to do extreme beauty looks but tonight was the moment. Per the show notes, it was “commanding, transportive beauty; like angels in the dark”, with several models given the same sculptural designs while others had silvery helmets or ghost roots in shades of pink and purple.
The swooping hair, which felt reminiscent (albeit more extreme) of the styles seen in the iconic Plato’s Atlantis collection, was more than just a dramatic beauty look — the design also tied into the tailored pieces, which had been crafted to recall sculptural angel wings. This season McGirr tapped Huntsman, a traditional Savile Row shop that previously collaborated with the brand back in 2002 and again in 2012. For spring 2027 the partnership consisted of three men’s suits that had an exaggerated shoulder and high, narrow waist. And speaking of past collaborators, Shaun Leane also made a return after first working with McQueen in 1995. For spring 2027 Leane created a bespoke metal harness made from recycled silver as well as reintroduced two archival headpieces from the fall 1998 “Joan” and 2004 “Pantheon ad Lucem” collections.
McGirr wanted to explore the contradictions of London, a place where centuries old places of worship existed mere miles from underground raves. That translated to smoked tulle puffball skirts tucked under menswear fabric blazers, lacy lingerie-inspired gowns with leather harnesses, acid floral printed gowns, and embellished suits. Angels, devils, demons, it was all one and the same — a sense of irreverence and mischief that the city is known for. And with a front row that included the likes of Florence Welch, Emma Louise Corrin, Lola Tung, Jamie Campbell Bower, and more, it seems like McGirr is drawing a crowd that has those exact same qualities.
