30 October 2023 |
Her namesake line finally went on sale today.
The world has changed greatly since Phoebe Philo departed Celine at the end of 2017. Designers have fallen in and out of favor, social media has become even more omnipresent, and trends have cycled at a dizzying pace. So when Philo announced her return to the industry in 2021, this time with her own line, her fans were ravenous, to say the least. Finally, after two long tortuous years, the collection debuted today and it was well worth the wait. Philo-philes who have been mourning the loss of their favorite designer need not worry, it’s as if no time has elapsed – the Celine woman has grown up to become the Phoebe Philo woman.
Today’s launch. called A1 is the largest, with over 150 pieces. and will arrive over three deliveries in the months to follow. The second, A2, is slated for Spring 2024. The idea is seasonless, trendless clothing where one edit continuously flows into another. It makes sense, seeing as how the pieces up on the site right now feel like she’s picked up where she left off last. From working with Daria Werbowy again to the stark lighting and spare background to the clean lines, it’s distinctly Philo to its core.
Outerwear and tailoring is strong, with sharply cut oversized blazers in olive, navy, and black mixed in with dramatic shaggy coats as well as plenty of cool leather jackets and elegant trenches. For those who were a fan of Philo’s slinky knits, she doesn’t disappoint as there are body hugging styles as well as chunky white turtlenecks – a nod to the iconic image of the designer clad in a similar design. Dresses are surprisingly sexy, revealing plenty of leg while blouses are available in both diaphanous and crisp iterations. Philo gets most creative in designing trousers with styles that feature zippers going up the leg, shaggy furry styles that add volume to the body, and her version of sporty leggings, complete with stripes.
Given the rabid following for Philo’s accessories, her new pieces bring the same excitement with the black cat eye sunglasses already selling out. On the bag front, iterations of the Cabas tote offer practical shapes with elegant design while the Gig bag is the 2023 version of the Trio. For shoes there are square toed pumps and booties, sharper versions of the styles she made popular. The loafers, cut with a slim toe and stacked heel, will be hits – they hit that intellectual comfort notes her customers seek. And finally to round it out, the jewelry is simple and hefty save for a necklace with the word “Mum” repeated over and over, as a twist on the chunky chain.
With limited quantities, it’s clear that the designer is prizing conscious consumption. ““The Phoebe Philo business model is designed to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing notably less than anticipated want,” they said via press release. Where Philo goes, the industry will be certain to follow
